The Dodecanese
The Dodecanese runs along the Turkish coast. Start with Rhodes for the walled Old Town and Lindos, then stay overnight on Symi instead of taking the return boat at dusk. Patmos works from Skala up to the Monastery of St John. Kos, Karpathos and Kastellorizo cover the rest of the chain without pretending six islands fit into one week.
Last reviewed July 2026
Euros, with cash for the smaller islands. Go in May or June, or from September to early October. Fly into Rhodes; Kos and Karpathos also have airports. Allow €180–800 a day. Spend the first nights in Rhodes Town, add Lindos, then continue to Symi or Patmos. Faliraki is the party-resort strip.
Rhodes has been run by the Knights of St John, the Ottomans and the Italians, and you can see all three within a few streets: the medieval walls, the mosques, the Italian quarter.
Fly into Rhodes (RHO), which runs direct from London and much of Europe between May and October. Symi is an hour and a half away by ferry at most, and two islands is a sensible week.
Rhodes for the medieval city, Symi for the harbour overnight, Patmos for the monastery.
May, June, September and early October keep the Lindos acropolis climbable in the morning and the small hotels open. July and August reach 38°C inland on Rhodes, and the Lindos buses fill. November to April, most small hotels close, especially on Symi and Patmos.
What Rhodes kept
The Knights of St John
Crusader ruleThe Knights of St John ruled Rhodes for 213 years. The Palace of the Grand Masters, Street of the Knights and old infirmary remain inside one of Europe's largest inhabited medieval walled cities. The Old Town has been UNESCO-listed since 1988.
The Ottomans
Ottoman ruleAfter Suleiman took Rhodes in 1522, mosques, hammams and minarets were built among the medieval lanes. Gothic and Ottoman buildings still share the same blocks in the Lower Town.
The Italians
Italian ruleItaly governed the Dodecanese from 1912 to 1947. The period left the modernist quarter in Rhodes New Town, the rebuilt Palace of the Grand Master and the Kallithea spa. The buildings are part of the record, including the Fascist government that commissioned them.
Greece
Greek ruleThe islands joined Greece in 1947.
Patmos
The monasteryThe Monastery of St John was founded in 1088 and has stood above Chora for centuries. The monastery and Cave of the Apocalypse have been UNESCO-listed since 1999.
Patmos has a different history. The Monastery of St John was founded in 1088 and has shaped the island for centuries.
Four rulers, four centuries, one set of streets.
Six islands to plan around
Rhodes needs three or four nights. Symi is better after the return boats leave. Patmos needs time for both Chora and Skala. Kos has the easiest northern connections. Karpathos is long, mountainous and exposed to wind at the south. Kastellorizo is one village beside the Turkish coast.
Base inside or beside the Old Town for the Palace of the Grand Masters, Street of the Knights, Archaeological Museum and Jewish Quarter. One of the largest still-inhabited medieval walled cities in Europe, UNESCO-listed since 1988. Lindos is about an hour down the east coast and needs an early start for the 4th-century-BC acropolis. Allow three to four nights.
Yialos harbour is lined with pastel 19th-century neoclassical houses, with Chorio above it at the top of the 500-step Kali Strata. A 50–90-minute ferry north of Rhodes. Day boats usually leave by early evening. Stay overnight and have dinner after the harbour clears.
Chora surrounds the Monastery of St John (founded 1088, UNESCO-listed); Skala is the harbour; Sapsila is the bay just south. The Cave of the Apocalypse, where John the Divine is said to have written Revelation, sits between Chora and Skala. Ferries arrive from Kos and from Piraeus (8 hrs). Many hotels close from November to Easter.
The 4th-century-BC Asclepieion is 4 km outside Kos Town, and the Plane Tree of Hippocrates stands on Plateia Platanou. Kos Town is the practical base for the site, restaurants and onward ferries. The south coast is dominated by all-inclusive resorts.
Karpathos is long and mountainous, halfway between Rhodes and Crete. Pigadia is the port and easiest base; Olympos is the cliff village in the north, where women still wear the regional dress at festivals; Afiartis at the southern end is exposed to the wind and used for windsurfing.
Kastellorizo sits 2 km from the Turkish coast, with the town of Kaş visible across the strait. The village wraps around one horseshoe harbour, and boats run to the Blue Cave (Parastas); Lycian rock tombs are cut into the cliff. Mediterraneo (1991 Oscar for Best Foreign Film) was shot here. Flights from Rhodes take about 25 minutes; ferry service is limited.
The table
The restaurant list is concentrated in Rhodes Old Town and Lindos, Yialos on Symi, Skala and Sapsila on Patmos, and the main harbours of Karpathos and Kastellorizo. Reserve Mavrikos, Noble Gourmet, Benetos, Vegghera and Pleiades in advance. The Olive Tree works for lunch after the Kali Strata. Many seasonal rooms close between November and Easter.
Rhodes & Lindos
Mavrikos · Lindos
€€€On the main square in Lindos village, under the acropolis: founded 1933, third-generation Mavrikos brothers, the institution every Greek-food writer cites first when Rhodes comes up. Modern Greek with Aegean detail; book a week ahead in summer. Reserve a dinner here on the Lindos night.
Mama Sofia
€€€Orfeos Street in the Rhodes Old Town, operating since 1967, the family-run Greek-Mediterranean room the regulars send you to. Slow-cooked lamb and fresh fish.
Pizanias
€€A small fish taverna in the Old Town since 1970, the Pizanias family room, where the catch is what came in that morning and the menu is the conversation. Ask what came in that morning.
Tamam
€€€Georgiou Leontos 1, Old Town: Greek-Eastern Mediterranean fusion in a room that nods to the chain's Ottoman past. Note: shares the name with the famous Chania (Crete) room but is unrelated. Use it for a Greek–Eastern Mediterranean dinner inside the Old Town.
Niohori
€€A traditional Rhodes taverna since 1981, where the Niohori family runs the butcher across the road and serves what they cut that morning. Order from the cuts prepared by the family butcher across the road.
To Megiston
€€An Old Town ouzeri, family-run, the small-plates-and-ouzo room for the slow late-afternoon stop between the Palace of the Grand Masters and dinner. Pitaroudia (the Rhodian chickpea fritter), local cheeses, wine by the carafe.
Noble Gourmet · Kallithea
€€€€€At the Elysium Resort on the Kallithea coast, 10 km south of Rhodes Town: chef Giorgos Troumouchis and Spyros Kougios (ex-Maaemo, Oslo) running a "Progressive Rhodian Cuisine" tasting menu. Athinorama Toque d'Or 2022–2024, FNL two-star.
Auvergne Café
€In a 16th-century Knights-of-St-John lodge courtyard on Megalou Alexandrou Square: a century-old ficus shading the tables, single-origin coffees, a small Greek wine list. Open from morning through the afternoon.
Lindos By Night
€€Operating since 1982, three levels in a Lindos house with twin rooftops facing the Acropolis directly. Reserve the rooftop for a direct view of the acropolis. Book for 7:30 in summer; tables go early after.
Ktima Lindos
€€€A garden restaurant on the Lindos hillside next door to Lindos Mare: Mediterranean cooking, mostly seafood, It works for lunch or an early dinner on the Lindos hillside. Seasonal May–October.
Symi
Mythos
€€€Yialos harbour, chef Stavros's wood-oven kitchen on Yialos harbour. Slow-cooked meat from the oven, the sweet small Symiakos shrimp (the island's famous catch), an unfussy wine list. The Yialos dinner.
Tholos
€€On the edge of Yialos harbour walking out toward Charani (not Pedi; Taverna Tolis is the Pedi one), a quiet fish-and-mezze room. The terrace looks along Yialos harbour. Ask what fish came in that day.
Manos Fish Restaurant
€€€The Yialos waterfront fish-meeting-point, long-running, the room the celebrity-yacht crowd cycles through. Order whatever's on the ice that day; share. Reservations help in season.
The Olive Tree
€€At the top of the Kali Strata (the 500-step stone staircase from Yialos to Chora): English-run, breakfast-and-lunch only, 8:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m. Excellent shakshuka and a small Greek-island wine list by the glass. Daytime only; closed for dinner.
Patmos
Benetos
€€€€Sapsila inlet just outside Skala: opened 1997 by Benetos and Susan Matthaiou, fourteen tables on a seaside veranda. Reserve at least a week ahead. Seasonal · closed Nov–Easter.
Vegghera
€€€€Twelve tables on the Skala marina, cooking modern Greek. It only opens in season, and you will need to reserve.
Giagko's Pantheon
€€In Chora, in the literal shadow of the Monastery walls, the family taverna, the lunch to have after the monastery morning. Greek classics done well, the meal that defines Patmos for the people who make it up there.
Trehantiri · Skala
€€A modest, affordable seafood taverna on the Skala waterfront, the casual second-night dinner after a Benetos or Vegghera splurge. Local fish, the Patmos-favourite aubergine in oil, retsina from the carafe.
Pleiades
€€€€Above Loukakia Beach in the Sapsila bay: chef Ettore Botrini (the same Botrini behind Etrusco on Corfu, who holds a Michelin star at his Athens restaurant) running a pool-side terrace kitchen. The menu includes shrimp risotto with vanilla and smoked-sygklino tagliatelle.
Karpathos & Kastellorizo
Acropolis Steak, Grill & Wine Bar
€€€Pigadia waterfront on Karpathos since 1989. Note: the name suggests Olympos village, but the restaurant is in Pigadia harbour, the capital. Steak, grill, and a longer wine list than most places on the island.
Poseidon Blue Gastronomy
€€€On the Pigadia waterfront, attached to the Poseidon Blue Gastronomy Hotel: modern Greek cooking on the Pigadia waterfront. Ask for the fish off the morning boat.
Faros Bar · Kastellorizo
€€By the small mosque at the eastern end of Kastellorizo harbour, a former lighthouse converted into the island's day-swim-and-sundowner spot. Glass-clear water off the harbour rocks; Swim from the harbour rocks, then stay for a drink as the sun drops over Turkey.
The stay
Rhodes has small hotels inside the Old Town and larger resorts along the coast. Symi's small hotels sit around Yialos, Nimborio and the Kali Strata. Petra is above Grikos on Patmos; Skala has simpler rooms beside the ferry. Sixteen properties here, and most seasonal ones close between November and Easter.
A seven-room boutique inside a restored Ottoman mansion in the Rhodes Old Town, brought back over twenty years by Giuseppe Sala and Efi Dede, each room its own painted-and-textiled set piece. Open April–October. The literary-traveller's address; the Marco Polo Cafe garden is the unsold breakfast.
Six suites inside a 600-year-old building in Rhodes Old Town, with vaulted stone ceilings, restored antiques and a small courtyard.
A family-run hotel in Skala, Patmos's harbour town, 50 metres from the ferry quay. Chora sits up the hill if the hilltop village matters more than ferry access.
Six suites behind the walls of a 14th-century Knights-of-St-John residence at St John's Gate: restored by Angelos and Anna Trillis, each suite a different historical layer (Crusader, Ottoman, Italian), the Old-Town boutique the design-press cites first. The flagship Rhodes city stay.
Adults-only design hotel on Rhodes's north-east coast at Kolymbia: bohemian-Mediterranean styling (the brand made its name), a serpentine pool spine, and it reposts well on the right Instagram accounts. 30 minutes from Old Town, 30 from Lindos.
Ten rooms at the base of the Kali Strata in a listed 19th-century commercial building. The rooftop Agora restaurant opened in 2023.
A central Yialos property with suites, gardens and a pool. It has more shared space than The Old Markets and is usually easier to book.
SLH-member small hotel on the hill above Grikos beach on Patmos: 11 rooms, terrace-and-sea views, the Petra family running it since 1989. The reference Patmos boutique stay, walking distance to a quiet swim and a 10-minute cab from Skala for the Vegghera/Benetos dinner.
Thirteen apartment-style villas on the Sapsila bay just south of Skala (where Benetos sits): the Patmos pick for couples or families who want a self-catering kitchen and a slow bay rather than a hotel-shape stay. Walk to Benetos for dinner.
Six rooms in Nimborio bay, 2 km from Yialos, run by Andrew and Claire. Water taxis handle the trip to town, and the rocks below the property are used for swimming.
The only luxury-tier hotel on Kos worth a Hala-page paragraph: Small Luxury Hotels member, adults-only, above Lambi beach 4 km from Kos Town. The Kos base if you're doing a Hippocrates-and-Asclepieion morning and a Patmos-via-ferry hop, and don't want the south-coast all-inclusive strip.
A 142-room luxury hotel on the cliff above Vlicha Bay, two kilometres from Lindos village: the cliff-down funicular to a private beach is the design signature. Larger-scale than the Old-Town boutiques, with a big pool and a full dining estate. The Lindos-area base for couples who want resort polish.
An adults-only resort at Navarone Bay, 1.5 km from Lindos, with private-pool suites. Smaller in scale than Lindos Mare.
A five-star spa-and-villas resort on Rhodes's south coast at Lachania, close to Prasonisi at the southern tip (where the Aegean meets the Med, the kitesurfing beach). The Rhodes top-tier for travellers who want the south rather than the Lindos belt.
An adults-only property at Navarone Bay, up the road from Lindos village, with 70 rooms in a Lindian-Italian style.
The only five-star on Patmos: Luxury Collection (Marriott) brand, 56 keys on Grikos bay, full spa and a proper restaurant. The top-tier Patmos pick if Petra's 11-room boutique is too intimate or sold out, with the brand-standard reliability the small properties can't quite promise.
What to do
Twelve things, four categories. Rhodes Old Town and Lindos are the medieval-Crusader mornings. Allow a morning for the Monastery of St John and the Cave of the Apocalypse. Symi's Kali Strata is the walk. Kastellorizo's Blue Cave is the half-day-boat to the eastern edge of Greece.
Rhodes Old Town · the walls morning
Rhodes Old Town
One of the largest still-inhabited medieval walled cities in Europe, UNESCO since 1988. Start at the Palace of the Grand Masters, walk down the cobbled Street of the Knights, end at the Archaeological Museum (housed in the old Knights' Hospital infirmary). Pair with the Jewish Quarter for the second half. Three hours; do it before 11 in summer.
Lindos Acropolis · at dawn
Lindos · east coast
The 4th-century-BC acropolis on the white cliff above Lindos: Temple of Athena Lindia, the long view down to St Paul's Bay. €12 entry, climb up on foot. Note: donkey rides are regulated as of 2024 (max 60 min daily per donkey, no midday work); walk instead, both for the animals' sake and because the cobbled climb in the cool of dawn is half the experience.
Kos · Asclepieion + Hippocrates's plane tree
Kos Town + 4 km
The 4th-century-BC Asclepieion, 4 km outside Kos Town, the ancient healing sanctuary where the Hippocratic medical tradition was effectively born. Pair with Plateia Platanou in Kos Town and the (likely-mythic) plane tree Hippocrates is said to have taught under. 90 min for the pair.
Patmos · Monastery of St John + Cave of the Apocalypse
Patmos Chora
The 1088 fortified monastery on top of Patmos's Chora, UNESCO-listed since 1999, the most important Greek-Orthodox site outside Mount Athos. Halfway down the hill sits the Cave of the Apocalypse where St John the Divine is said to have written Revelation. Modest dress required (covered shoulders, long skirts/trousers); 9–13 daily. The Patmos morning.
Symi · Panormitis Monastery
Panormitis bay · south Symi
At Panormitis bay on Symi's south coast, a 25-minute drive from Yialos: an 18th-century monastery dedicated to the Archangel Michael. The chapel has a gold-and-silver-leaf wall. Boats arrive here on some Rhodes day-tour.
Rhodes Archaeological Museum
Rhodes Old Town
Housed in the 15th-century Knights' Hospital infirmary in the Old Town: Mycenaean gold, the famous Aphrodite of Rhodes (the Hellenistic statue emerging from a bath), the Lindos pediments. The pair with the Palace of the Grand Masters in a single Old-Town morning. Allow 90 minutes.
Symi · ferry from Rhodes
Rhodes → Symi
The 50–90-min ferry from Rhodes harbour to Symi Yialos, the defining Dodecanese boat. Take an early ferry (~9 a.m.), stay the night, ferry back the next afternoon. The harbour at dusk, after the day-trippers have left, is the unsold experience the page is built around.
Kastellorizo · the Blue Cave
From Kastellorizo harbour
A 90-min boat tour from Kastellorizo harbour to the Parastas Blue Cave, accessible only in calm seas; you enter lying flat in a small boat through a 1 m gap, and the chamber inside is filtered Aegean blue. Lycian rock tombs visible from the harbour. Combine with Faros Bar for the day.
Karpathos · Olympos by boat
From Pigadia or Diafani
Olympos perches on a cliff at the north tip of Karpathos; the easier access is by morning caïque from Pigadia or Diafani up the east coast, returning by 1990s-jeep over the mountain. The cliff-top village still observes its own dialect, and the women wear traditional dress for festivals. Half-day on a boat; pair with a Pigadia waterfront lunch.
Symi · the Kali Strata
Yialos → Chorio · Symi
The defining Symi walk: 500 stone steps from Yialos harbour up to Chorio (Symi Chora) at the top. 30 minutes up, 20 down, an hour to see the medieval Chorio and walk back. The Olive Tree at the top is the breakfast/lunch reward; sunset from up there is the unbeatable Symi-harbour photograph.
Prasonisi · Rhodes south tip
South tip of Rhodes
The sand spit at Rhodes's far southern tip where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean: when the wind is up, the two seas run different colours, with waves on either side of the same beach. One of Europe's top kitesurfing beaches; lessons run from the Atrium Prestige side. Drive an hour and a half from Rhodes Town; pair with an Atrium Prestige lunch.
Karpathos · Olympos village wander
Olympos · north Karpathos
If you've made it up by boat-and-jeep, give Olympos two hours on foot: the windmill stub on the ridge, the church of Panagia, the women's bakery and the lace-and-textile shops. The local festival days (mostly Easter, mid-August) are when the dress comes out; the village has kept its pre-1950s dress and crafts.
Valley of the Butterflies · Petaloudes
Petaloudes · SW Rhodes
A protected oriental-sweetgum (storax) woodland 25 km south-west of Rhodes Town: the only place in Europe where the Jersey Tiger moth (Euplagia quadripunctaria) congregates in millions to mate. Peak activity is late June through early September, with July–August the textbook window. Keep your voice down on the wooden trails; the moths rest on tree trunks and shouldn't be disturbed.
Stay after the return boats leave.
Seven nights, Rhodes + Symi
Four nights on Rhodes (Old Town + Lindos), three on Symi (Yialos overnight, the boat-day, the Kali Strata at sunset), back to Rhodes to fly home. A Patmos-led week is set out in Worth Knowing.
- 12:00Land at Rhodes (RHO): direct from London / European hubs, or 50-min connection from Athens. Transfer 20 min into the Old Town.
- 13:30Check in: Marco Polo Mansion / Spirit of the Knights / Kókkini Porta Rossa: drop bags inside the walls.
- 15:00First walk: the Old Town: easy orientation through Hippokratous and Sokratous to the Palace of the Grand Masters. Coffee at Marco Polo Cafe.
- 19:00Sunset on the city walls: the dry moat walk circuit (free) is the underrated city view.
- 21:00Dinner at Mama Sofia: an easy first dinner on Orfeos, and you should book ahead.
- 09:00Palace of the Grand Masters + Street of the Knights: €10 combo ticket, 2 hours. Go at opening; by 11 the cruise tours arrive.
- 11:30Rhodes Archaeological Museum: in the 15th-c. Knights' Hospital infirmary, the Aphrodite of Rhodes is here. 90 minutes.
- 13:30Lunch at Pizanias: an Old Town fish-and-mezze room since 1970, and you should book ahead.
- 16:00Slow afternoon: Old Town shopping (the leather-and-textile lanes off Sokratous), or a swim at Elli Beach 10 min walk from the walls.
- 21:00Dinner at Tamam or Rex: book whichever you didn't do night one.
- 07:00Drive to Lindos: 1 hour down the east coast. Aim for 8 a.m. on the acropolis steps.
- 08:30Lindos Acropolis: €12, walk up (donkey rides regulated, walk anyway). 90 min on top; the Temple of Athena Lindia and the long view down to St Paul's Bay.
- 11:00Lindos village wander: the white-cube lanes, the Captain's Houses with their pebble-mosaic floors. Stay ahead of the day-bus crowds that arrive 11–12.
- 13:30Lunch at Mavrikos: on the Lindos main square. Book a week ahead. The dinner-quality lunch.
- 16:00Swim at Pallas or St Paul's Bay: the two coves under the acropolis. Drive back to Rhodes at sunset.
- 21:00Light Old Town dinner: To Megiston ouzeri for small plates if the appetite is lighter after the Mavrikos lunch.
- 10:00Choose: south-coast day (Prasonisi + lunch at Atrium Prestige, 90 min drive) or pool-and-Old-Town day. The Prasonisi run is the most-rewarding drive on Rhodes.
- 13:30Lunch: Atrium Prestige if you're down south, or Niohori in town for the meat-focused dinner-as-lunch.
- 17:00Slow afternoon: drinks at the Cavalieri rooftop or the hotel bar.
- 21:00Dinner: last Rhodes night, finish at Mama Sofia or the hotel restaurant.
- 09:00Hydrofoil to Symi: from Rhodes Mandraki Harbour or the commercial port. 50–90 min depending on operator; book 1–2 weeks ahead in season.
- 10:30Arrive Yialos: check in at The Old Markets or Iapetos Village. Drop bags.
- 12:00Climb the Kali Strata: 500 steps up to Chorio. Slow pace; stop at The Olive Tree at the top for lunch.
- 14:00Lunch at The Olive Tree: daytime-only; the reward for the climb.
- 17:00Walk Chorio: the medieval village, the Symi Castle (Kastro) ruins, the church bells at 6.
- 21:00Dinner at Mythos: Yialos harbour, the wood-oven kitchen, book.
- 09:30Hire a small boat from Yialos: half-day around Symi's secret coves (Marathounta, Nanou, Agios Georgios Disalonas with the 100 m cliff drop into the water).
- 13:00Beach lunch at Nanou or Marathounta: both have a single taverna on the sand; pick by wind direction.
- 17:00Back in Yialos: shower, nap, the Panormitis-monastery option if you didn't combine with the boat day.
- 19:30Sunset drink up the Kali Strata: the cocktail at the top is the Symi-harbour view everyone comes for.
- 21:00Dinner at Manos Fish or Tholos: Yialos waterfront, the catch of the day.
- 09:00Slow morning swim: Nos beach 5 min from Yialos for an easy harbour-side swim.
- 11:30Hydrofoil back to Rhodes: 50–90 min to Mandraki / commercial port.
- 13:30Lunch in Rhodes Old Town before the airport: Pomo d'Oro–calibre, or Starenio for a quick spanakopita.
- 16:30Fly home from RHO: direct back to European hubs.
The Dodecanese table
Crusader, Ottoman and Italian centuries on the same islands, and the table shows it. Order these and you've eaten the Dodecanese.
A few things
Six things that change the trip.
The day boats from Rhodes run about six hours and leave in the early evening. Staying the night at The Old Markets or Iapetos Village puts dinner on Yialos harbour after they have gone.
Donkey rides up to the acropolis have been regulated since 2024: a 60-minute daily maximum per animal, no midday work and route limits. The cobbled climb takes about 20 minutes on foot and is easiest at 8 a.m., before the heat. Entry is €12.
The 1088 Monastery of St John on Patmos is still a working religious site: covered shoulders, long skirts or trousers, no shorts. Shawls and wraps are available at the entrance but limited; wear long-sleeves to keep moving. The Cave of the Apocalypse below has the same rule. Open 9–13 daily.
Fly into Rhodes (RHO) for the Rhodes and Symi week; direct routes run from London and European hubs May–October. For Patmos, fly to Athens or Kos (KGS) and ferry on (Patmos has no airport). Karpathos has its own airport (AOK) but mostly Athens domestic; Kastellorizo is 25-min flight from RHO.
Most boutique hotels on Symi, Patmos, Karpathos and Kastellorizo close November through Easter. Marco Polo Mansion is April–October; Benetos and Petra on Patmos are May–October. Rhodes Old Town hotels stay open year-round; Lindos resorts mostly close late October.
Faliraki on Rhodes's east coast is the charter-party strip; Kos has an all-inclusive strip around Kardamena on the south coast. The hotels in this guide sit elsewhere: Rhodes Old Town, Lindos and Vlicha on Rhodes, and Kos Town on Kos.
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