A 16th-century-BC volcanic eruption left a 12-kilometre caldera, a cliff-edge village (Oia) that has been photographed so many times the air around it has changed, and an island that quietly does much more than the postcard. Stay in Imerovigli or Pyrgos, not Oia. Skip every restaurant on the caldera (the food is on the back side of the island). Boat to Akrotiri before the cruise ships dock. Drive the wine villages. Three nights, four if you're doing a boat day.
Santorini is two islands. There is the caldera Santorini — Oia, Fira, Imerovigli, the cliff-edge hotels, the photograph everyone takes. And there is the inland Santorini — Pyrgos and Megalochori (the wine villages), Akrotiri (the Pompeii of Greece, buried under volcanic ash since 1600 BC), the black-sand beaches at Perissa and Kamari, the back-of-the-island restaurants where the food actually is. Most travellers do only the first one. The trip people quote back at you does both.
Three nights. Imerovigli base. Akrotiri before the ships dock.
Cruise-ship days (3–5 ships dock most summer days, each carrying 3,000+ passengers) turn Oia and Fira unwalkable between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. The schedule is published a year ahead at santorinicruises.gr. Do Akrotiri and the wine villages on cruise days; do the cliff walks on the other days. May, June, late September, and October are the windows; August is the heat and the volume.
Six villages worth knowing on a 76-square-kilometre island. Pick one cliff base, do dinners and walks in the others.
The photographed sunset, the blue domes, the 6 p.m. queue past the Maritime Museum. Beautiful, expensive, almost unwalkable in season — by 5 p.m. the bus stop and the Fira road clog. Stay only if the cliffside-pool premium is the trip; otherwise base elsewhere and come for one early morning. Eat at 1500 BC (Skala) or Roka before the cruise crowds.
The highest village on the rim, between Fira and Oia — the same view as Oia for noticeably less, and the one Santorini village with a real walk (Skaros Rock, the abandoned Venetian fortress, 20 minutes downhill). The default Hala base. Stay at Aenaon Villas or Astra Suites. Dinner at Anógi, lunch at Avocado.
The capital — every bus connects here, the cable car from the old port lands here, the museums and banks are here. Loud, central, more useful than charming. Don’t stay (Imerovigli is 15 minutes’ walk and far calmer), but come for the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (the Akrotiri frescoes the site itself doesn’t show) and the cable-car ride down for fish at Niko’s.
A medieval hilltop village in the island’s centre, built around a Venetian castle. The inland stay — no caldera view, but the food and wine are the draw: Botargo up in the Kasteli fortress, the wineries (Hatzidakis, Santo Wines on the cliff), with Selene (Fira) and Metaxi Mas (Exo Gonia) a short drive off. The base for the second-time-to-Santorini traveller.
Smaller and quieter than Pyrgos, in the southern vineyards — a traditional wine village of 17th- and 18th-century mansions and three of the island’s older wineries (Gavalas, Boutari, the historic Antoniou cave). The Pyrgos → Megalochori → Akrotiri drive is the inland half-day most travellers skip.
The southern cape — anchored by the Akrotiri archaeological site (a Minoan city under volcanic ash since 1600 BC, frescoed walls still standing) and the Red Beach below it (red sand, red cliffs, a little rockfall-prone — admire from the viewpoint, swim with caution). A morning loop: site at 9 a.m. opening, Red Beach viewpoint, lunch at The Cave of Nikolas on the harbour.
Fifteen restaurants and bars, almost none on the caldera — Santorini's serious food is on the back of the island (the wine villages, Akrotiri, Exo Gonia), while the cliff-side rooms are for the photograph, not the plate. Eat at Selene, 1500 BC, Lauda, or in the inland villages.
The honest lunches and the harbour fish — most of them out of central Fira and Oia, where the food is cheaper and better.
The Roussos family has run this Firostefani taverna since 1922 — the kind of place where the menu hasn't changed because it didn't need to. Order the volcanic-tomato fritters, the warm fava, the grilled octopus; drink the house Assyrtiko from a carafe. Lunch is the move (the room is small and the dinner queue isn't worth it).
A Cretan-Santorinian taverna in Exo Gonia next to Agios Charalampos church, in a 19th-century building with a stone terrace facing east toward Anafi. Booked-out month-ahead in season — the food is honest, the room is warm, the wine list goes deep into local Assyrtiko and the rare Mavrotragano. The long taverna lunch most travellers wish they'd booked earlier.
A third-generation family fish taverna on Akrotiri beach, founded 1967 and hand-carved by “Uncle Nikolas” to feed the Akrotiri excavation crews — the boats moor a few metres from the tables, the catch is whatever came in that morning, the room is shaded with bamboo. Pair with the Akrotiri site visit (a 5-minute drive). Cash and card both fine; lunch is when the room is alive.
A walk-up grill house on the Oia main strip — charcoal-grilled pork on the spit, hand-cut pita, the cheapest legitimate meal in Oia by a long way. €4–6 a pita. Eat standing on the corner; do not look for the cliffside seat. The lunch when you've burned through the budget at brunch.
Eight rooms across the island — almost none of them on the caldera. Book a week ahead; longer for Selene and Lauda.
The most-considered modern Greek kitchen on Santorini — founded 1985 by George Hatzigiannakis (who's since departed); now in Fira under Michelin-starred chef Ettore Botrini (formerly of his eponymous Etrusco on Corfu). Tasting-menu only, deeply rooted in the Santorinian pantry: fava in three textures, sun-dried tomatoes from Mesa Gonia, capers from Akrotiri. The wine list takes Assyrtiko more seriously than anywhere on earth. Book a month ahead in season.
The dining room at Andronis Boutique Hotel in Oia — the island’s first restaurant, opened 1971, now consulted by three-Michelin-star chef Emmanuel Renaut (Flocons de Sel in the French Alps). Cliff-edge terrace facing west into the caldera; the tasting menu pairs Renaut's alpine precision with Santorinian ingredients. Book three weeks ahead; the sunset booking is the move.
A cliff-edge seafood room in Fira above Town Hall square — named for the Akrotiri Bronze Age date, the kitchen leans hard on what came in at Vlychada that morning. Whole grilled fish, raw seafood platters, an excellent Santorinian wine list. The kitchen’s better than a cliff-view address usually is. Reserve the terrace.
A modern-Greek room in an old Oia building — food-led, no cliff view, smaller and more deliberate than the caldera spots. Book a week ahead in season.
The old cliff-side Argo relocated in recent years to a large garden venue in Kontochori, ~5 minutes from Fira — gave up the cliff view in exchange for room to breathe. Modern Greek-Mediterranean in a calmer setting. The right pick when you want the food without the cruise-deck volume.
On the Oia caldera edge — restaurant and bar, the rare cliff-side address where the food still respects itself. Mediterranean, seafood-led, an outdoor terrace cantilevered over the rim. Less touristy than Ambrosia next door; book the sunset table.
A traditional family taverna in Finikia, the small village a kilometre east of Oia — Cycladic-mainland menu, charcoal-grilled meat, fava, the local Assyrtiko in carafes. The dinner most travellers don't think to drive to. Five-minute cab from Oia.
Mediterranean-Greek fine dining inside the medieval Kasteli fortress of Pyrgos — tasting menus, a terrace looking across the entire caldera. Modern technique on Cycladic ingredients. The Pyrgos splurge dinner, paired easily with a daytime wine tasting nearby.
Santorini's bar scene is small and concentrated in Fira — the cliff-edge cocktail rooms, one molecular-mixology cave, and the bar that's been doing it since 1976.
A cliff-edge cocktail bar in Fira opened in 1979 by Franco Colombo — an Italian from Turin and a devoted classical-music aficionado. Open-air terrace facing the caldera, classical and opera on the speakers, jacketed bartenders, no concessions to the cruise crowd. The Maria Callas, the champagne cocktail Franco created here, is the order; the sunset hour fills the terrace. Now serves small plates too.
Santorini's first cocktail bar — opened 1976 in Fira, dug into the cliff overlooking the volcano, and still run by the founding Chrysos family. Small, dim, locally-loved; the Athens cocktail crowd's pilgrimage stop when they visit. The right second stop after Franco's.
An Athens import (not a Santorini original), a molecular-mixology bar inside a cave on Marinatou Street in Fira — smoked drinks, edible-foam toppings, drinks served in lab beakers and on slate slabs. Cliff-cave interior with caldera view through the windows. More theatre than the other Fira bars; worth one stop if you've already done the classics.
Twelve hotels across four tiers. The honest read: Imerovigli is the default base — the Oia view at half the rate, walkable to Fira and the Skaros Rock walk; Oia is the once-or-twice splurge; Pyrgos the second-trip choice.
Six cave-cut villas on the Skaros-facing edge of Imerovigli — the same caldera view as Oia at noticeably less rate, with a small infinity pool looking straight across to Skaros Rock. Each villa is named and styled individually, carved into the volcanic rock in the old Cycladic way, and the whole place feels more lived-in than the famous-name Oia properties next door. Family-run and quiet. Open April through October; the early-evening light on the pool deck is the moment.
A seven-suite boutique on the highest cliff-point of Imerovigli, set just past the Agios Nikolaos monastery that separates it from the village — the panoramic caldera view from the suites is one of the more dramatic on the island, and the small scale means it feels nothing like the larger Oia properties. Each suite is named and individually styled, carved in the cave-house way, four of the seven with private plunge pools. The building was once a private home filled with art, and it still reads that way — design-forward without being precious, with a custom library and a pool that catches the morning light. Book a sunset-side suite.
The Santorini sibling of the more-famous Paros property — opened on the Oia outskirts, renovated 2020–21. 25 cliff-edge rooms, a freshwater pool with direct caldera views and the Oia sunset alignment, the design language consistent with the Paros original (minimalist white-on-white). Now a Premium All-Inclusive: a champagne welcome, in-room breakfast, and a sunset glass of champagne. Most-considered low-€€ Oia stay; book six weeks ahead.
The Karagiannis family opened Astra Suites in the early 1990s — one of Imerovigli’s original design hotels, predating most of the cliffside boutique scene. 21 cave-cut suites and villas across the cliff face, a heated pool, the caldera-facing Five Senses restaurant. Less photographed than the Oia headliners but consistently on best-of lists for 30+ years. Sunset booking on the restaurant terrace is essential.
Marriott Luxury Collection's Santorini property — rooms and villas across multiple restored stone buildings inside a 400-year-old Megalochori village footprint. An underground 17th-century wine cave converted into the bar; a kitchen that takes Cycladic ingredients seriously; a quieter, more residential alternative to the caldera headliners. The Santorini stay for travellers who came for the food and the wine villages, not the cliff.
Auberge Resorts' Santorini property — 21 rooms and suites plus a private villa cut into the Imerovigli cliff, an infinity pool framed directly on the caldera and Skaros Rock, and Varoulko Santorini (chef Lefteris Lazarou's Greek-Aegean seafood room — Lazarou was the first chef in Greece to earn a Michelin star). The Auberge service standard with a Santorinian setting. Smaller than the Andronis properties; quieter than the Oia headliners.
Andronis Group's original Oia property — home to Lauda, Oia's first restaurant, opened 1971 — 25 suites carved into the upper Oia cliff, Lauda restaurant on the same terrace, an infinity pool that's been on every other Greek-hotels listicle for a decade. One of Oia’s iconic caldera pools. Honeymoon-defining; absurd in the best way.
The Santorini sibling of the famous Mykonos property — 13 suites only, a fraction of the Mykonos flagship’s scale, opened 2021 in Imerovigli, cut into the cliff at the edge of the village. Both Roka by Zuma (Japanese, part of the international Azumi group) and Vezené (Greek modern, named for chef Ari Vezené) — rare for a property of this size to have two serious restaurants. Smaller and more deliberate than the Andronis flagships; the design-led traveller's pick.
Marriott Luxury Collection's flagship Santorini property (opened 2007) — 40 suites and villas across seven categories cut into the upper Oia cliff face, Charisma for dinner, the Captain's Lounge for casual all-day dining, and a separate 150-year-old Secret Wine Cave for sunset tastings. The full Marriott service standard with a Santorinian setting. For a private plunge pool, book a Wet Allure Suite; the Secrecy and Mystery Villas have the private infinity pools that make the room people remember.
Opened 1996 — one of Oia's original luxury hotels, the cliff-cut cubist style the whole village built after has been measured against. 35 suites cut into the cliff face, three infinity pools (one with the famous overhang), and Botrini's Santorini, the fine-dining room by Michelin chef Ettore Botrini. Leading Hotels of the World member since the beginning. The classical Oia luxury stay.
The most-considered headline Santorini property of the post-2020 generation — 28 cliff-cut suites in Imerovigli, the Kallos Spa with cave treatment rooms and a serious treatment menu (Santorini's most serious dedicated wellness resort), the open-air Throubi restaurant. Andronis Group's wellness flagship — quieter than the Boutique Hotel in Oia and the most polished property in Imerovigli.
Twelve things worth structuring a half-day around — the Akrotiri Bronze Age site, the two best swim coves, the volcano boat trip, the Skaros walk, the wine villages drive (deep-dive in the wine guide). The Oia sunset is on the list because it has to be; it's also the most-overrated half-hour on the island.
Santorini
The "Pompeii of Greece" — a Minoan city buried under volcanic ash since 1600 BC, with three-storey buildings, frescoed walls, and a sophisticated drainage system still preserved where the residents left them. Covered by a vast bioclimatic shelter (the new one, opened 2012). 90 minutes to walk through. Go at 9 a.m. opening, before the cruise crowds arrive at 11. Pair with The Cave of Nikolas for lunch at the harbour.
Santorini
In Fira on Mitropoleos Street — the museum that holds the actual frescoes pulled out of Akrotiri (the site itself only displays reproductions). The Spring Fresco (a wall painting of swallows and lilies from the eve of the eruption) is the headline. Two hours. Pair with Akrotiri the same day; the site shows you the building, the museum shows you what was inside.
Mesa Vouno
The second-most-important archaeological site on Santorini and the one most travellers don't bother with — a 9th-century-BC Dorian settlement on the limestone ridge of Mesa Vouno on the south-east coast, with views across to Kamari and Perissa. Driveable to the parking lot; a 20-minute walk up the ridge to the site. Less photogenic than Akrotiri, more atmospheric.
Akrotiri
Red volcanic sand against red cliffs at the southern tip of the island, a 5-minute coastal walk from the Akrotiri site parking lot. Note: do not swim under the cliffs. Rockfall has closed the beach itself in recent years; the viewpoint is the legitimate visit. Photogenic, slightly dangerous from the cliff above, never noon. Pair with the Akrotiri site visit.
Santorini
A long stretch of dark grey sand on the south coast under white tufa-stone cliffs the wind and rain have carved into wave shapes — the most-architectural beach on the island and almost completely overlooked by the cruise crowds. The far end is quietest. Bring shoes — the sand is fine but the rocks are sharp. Pair with the Santorini Arts Factory at the inland Vlychada port (the old tomato canning plant, now a serious contemporary-art space).
Santorini
The long black-sand beach on the south-east coast, sub-divided into Perissa (the quieter northern end), Perivolos (the developed beach-club middle), and Vlychada (the wild south end). Sunbeds at the beach clubs €25–60 per pair; free swim from the public stretches. Best for a half-day swim-and-lunch when the inland half of the island is too hot. Drive over rather than bus.
Santorini
The half-day boat trip from Fira's old port — to Nea Kameni, the still-active volcanic islet in the centre of the caldera (a 30-minute hike up the steaming cone to the crater rim), then to Palea Kameni for a swim in the sulphur-warmed hot-spring cove (the water turns brick-red from the iron oxide). Boats leave roughly every hour from 11 a.m.; €30–45 with a small operator, €60–90 with the big tour boats. Take a small operator.
Santorini
The half-day-into-evening catamaran trip — out of Vlychada port (cheaper, quieter) or Ammoudi at the base of Oia (more expensive, scenic). Five-hour route around the caldera, swim stops at the Red Beach cove and White Beach (both unreachable from land), sunset under the Oia cliffs from the water. Most boats include dinner on board. Book the small-group operators (max 16 passengers); skip the 50-person megaboats.
Imerovigli
A 20-minute downhill walk from the Imerovigli main square to the abandoned medieval Venetian fortress on the Skaros sea-stack — the path drops down the cliff face, hugs the sea-stack, and ends at the tiny whitewashed chapel of Theoskepasti perched on the rock. The walk back up is the only argument against. Best at golden hour (5–6 p.m.); the late-evening light on the sea-stack is the photograph that's secretly the best Santorini shot.
Santorini
The 10-kilometre cliff-edge path from Fira to Oia — through Firostefani, Imerovigli, past Skaros Rock, along the ridge to Oia. Three to four hours depending on stops. Almost entirely paved; some elevation change in the Imerovigli section. Walk early — start by 8 a.m. before the sun and the cruise crowds. Take water and sunscreen you actually believe in. Hotel staff can arrange a transfer back from Oia.
Santorini
The medieval inland village at the highest point on Santorini — climb up through the labyrinth to the Venetian castle at the top, with a 360° view across the entire caldera, Akrotiri, Perissa, the open Aegean. Less photographed and less crowded than the Oia sunset, with better light on the white houses. Pair with dinner at Botargo (the 18th-c mansion in the Kasteli) or Selene (if it's been moved back yet — verify).
Santorini
The single-best half-or-full-day a Santorini visitor can do — four wineries across Pyrgos, Megalochori, Episkopi, Exo Gonia, with lunch in a wine village in between. Cross-reference our Santorini wine guide for the full producer list, the one-day tasting itinerary, and the three bottles worth shipping home. Hire a driver; don't drive yourself after four tastings.
Base in Imerovigli. Day 1: arrival, Skaros at sunset, Selene for dinner. Day 2: Akrotiri + wine day. Day 3: caldera boat trip + Oia farewell. Three nights is the floor; four if you want a beach day.
Athens → Santorini
SeaJet from Piraeus (4h30) or Aegean flight (45 min from ATH)Most travellers fly (€60–180 one way, 45 min Aegean from Athens). Ferry is the romantic option: the 7 a.m. Blue Star from Piraeus arrives at Athinios at 3 p.m.; the SeaJet at noon. Pre-book your hotel transfer from Athinios — the cab queue can run an hour.
Check into the Imerovigli base
Aenaon Villas / Astra Suites / Grace HotelDrop bags, swim, register the view. Lunch at Aktaion in Firostefani (10-minute walk from most Imerovigli hotels) if you haven't eaten on the boat.
Skaros Rock walk
Imerovigli · 20-min downhill walkFrom the Imerovigli main square, walk down to the abandoned Venetian fortress on the Skaros sea-stack. The late-afternoon light on the rock is the secret-best Santorini photograph. Walk back up by 7.30.
Selene
Fira · chef Ettore Botrini · tasting menu onlyCab to Fira. The most-considered modern-Greek tasting menu on the island, deeply rooted in the Santorinian pantry. Book a month ahead.
Akrotiri archaeological site
Southern tip · the Bronze Age cityDrive to Akrotiri (25 min from Imerovigli) for the 9 a.m. opening. 90 minutes inside the bioclimatic shelter; before the cruise crowds arrive at 11. Pair with the Red Beach viewpoint (5 min walk from the parking lot) afterward.
The Cave of Nikolas
Akrotiri harbour · whole fish5-min drive from the site to the harbour. Third-generation family fish taverna; the boats moor metres from the tables. Order whatever's on for the day; pair with a chilled Assyrtiko from the carafe.
A wine-villages tasting
Hatzidakis (Pyrgos) → Sigalas (Oia hinterland)Drive to Pyrgos for the Hatzidakis cave tasting (€20–30, biodynamic, smaller-batch); then to Sigalas in the Oia hinterland for the garden tasting (€25–45). See the wine guide for the full day's itinerary if you want four wineries instead of two.
Metaxi Mas
Exo Gonia · long Cretan-Santorinian taverna10-min drive from Sigalas. Cretan-Santorinian taverna with a stone terrace facing east toward Anafi; book the table at the railing. Three hours, easily.
Nea Kameni volcano + Palea Kameni hot springs
From Fira old port · half-day boatCable car down from Fira (€6, 5-min ride; the donkey path takes 30 min and is rough on the knees). Small-boat operator out of the old port (€30–45); 30-min hike up Nea Kameni to the crater rim, then a swim in the brick-red sulphur springs at Palea Kameni. Bring an old swim — the iron oxide stains.
Pelekanos (Oia)
Oia caldera edge · seafood-ledCab to Oia; late lunch on the caldera terrace before the sunset crowd builds. Sea-urchin spaghetti, fennel salad, a chilled rosé. Stay through the sunset hour at the table.
Oia main strip walk
Maritime Museum → blue domes → western castleWalk the Oia main strip — the windmill, the Maritime Museum, the three blue-domed churches everyone photographs, the western castle ruins above Ammoudi Bay. Yes, it's a queue; yes, it's still worth one slow walk. Skip the actual sunset queue at the castle; the better view is from the path.
Lauda (Andronis Boutique Hotel)
Oia cliff terrace · chef Renaut consultingThree blocks from the main strip. The closing tasting menu on the Andronis cliff terrace. Book three weeks ahead; sunset-side tables go first, specify at booking.
Two extensions worth a fourth-day commitment from Santorini — both reached by morning ferry, both back by the late afternoon boat.
The smallest of the Cyclades worth a structured visit — three settlements, one main road, a cliff-edge Chora that's been there since the Venetians arrived in 1207. The 90-minute fast ferry from Santorini to Karavostasi is the move. Walk from the Chora to the Aspropounta lighthouse at 5 p.m. Lunch at Eva's Garden in the Chora. Back on the evening ferry. The deceleration the trip needs.
The forgotten Santorini — the small island on the western side of the caldera (you can see it from Oia), with around 250 year-round residents and almost no tourist infrastructure. 15-minute boat from Ammoudi Bay below Oia. Manolas village at the top of the cliff has two tavernas and the most quiet, residual feeling on the entire caldera. Half a day. The Santorini contrarian's day trip.
Almost no rain. No topsoil — just volcanic pumice and ash. A meltemi that ought to shred any vineyard. And out of that, one of the most distinctive whites on earth. The vines drink the sea fog, not the sky. It shouldn't work. It has, for thousands of years.
Bone-dry, high-acid, almost saline on the finish — a Chablis with the volume turned up. The volcanic white the rest of the wine world has only just caught up to.
Assyrtiko left to sun-dry for two weeks, pressed, then aged in oak for years. An ancient amber dessert wine — the island was making it centuries before the Tuscan version.
Six dishes the island is built on — most of them volcanic-soil-specific (the cherry tomato, the white aubergine, the chickpea), most of them on every taverna menu, almost none of them on the Plaka-of-Santorini cliff tour menus. Order in roughly this order.
The mechanics that separate a Santorini trip from a queue at a bakery in Oia.
3–5 cruise ships dock most summer days, each unloading 3,000+ passengers between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Oia and Fira become unwalkable during those windows. The annual schedule is published at santorinicruises.gr; cross-reference your trip and do the inland half (Akrotiri, the wine villages, Megalochori) on cruise days. Save the caldera walks for the days without ships.
Imerovigli is the default — same caldera view as Oia at noticeably lower rates, walkable to Fira and the Skaros Rock walk, less than 30 minutes to anywhere on the island by cab. Pyrgos is the second-time-to-Santorini choice (inland, the serious food, the wine villages). Oia is the once-or-twice splurge. Fira is the central capital but not a stay you'd choose.
It is genuinely beautiful and it is genuinely a queue. The viewing platforms at the castle and the Maritime Museum fill by 6.30 p.m. in summer; the path between them clogs by 7. Two alternatives that both work: (1) book a sunset table at Pelekanos or Lauda and stay through the hour at the table; (2) skip Oia entirely and watch the same sunset from Pyrgos summit, with the entire caldera in one frame and almost no one else there.
Yes — almost everything on this page (Akrotiri, the wine villages, Mesa Vouno, Vlychada, Perissa, Megalochori) is unreachable by bus without spending 4 hours on connections. Rent locally on the island (€35–55/day in season); skip the airport-counter chains. Bring an EU/UK/US/CA driver's licence; no international permit needed. Don't drive after wine tastings — hire a driver for those days.
5 hours on the Blue Star (€45 economy, €70 reserved seat) or 4.5 hours on the SeaJet/HighSpeed (€80–120). Blue Star is reliable in wind; SeaJets get cancelled in meltemi (especially August). Book on Ferryhopper (not the operator sites). Fly the return if you're tight on time — Aegean from Santorini to Athens is 45 minutes and €60–150 one way.
The dry northerly wind blows down the Aegean from late June through mid-September, peaks in August, reaches force 7 on bad days. Cancels fast ferries (not the Blue Stars), grounds small boats, blows sand across beach umbrellas. Build a buffer day between Santorini and your next destination — don't book a Mykonos-to-Athens-via-Santorini connection in the same morning.
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