Naoussa Dinner
Five rooms in Naoussa town — the harbour fish house, the wine taverna, the alley-tiny boutique kitchen, the beach taverna, the chef's plate.
Mario
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Must orderwhole fish from the case + chilled Assyrtiko
The Naoussa harbour fish house, directly on the quay; the boats moor metres from your table, and the catch came in that morning. Pick your fish from the case and have it filleted at the table. Reserve the corner outdoor table, the one facing the working harbour, over the air-conditioned interior. Cash and card both fine.
Naoussa harbourFish off the boatReserve the corner
InsiderMario himself works the floor most nights; ask him what came off the boats rather than ordering blind. Beyond the whole fish, the grilled octopus with caper pesto is the dish that brings people back. Small room, so book a day or two ahead in summer.
Yemeni Wine Restaurant
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Must orderboneless lamb wrapped in vine leaves with Naxos cheese
A wine taverna in a quiet Naoussa lane since 2007, with the best Greek cooking in town and a list deeper in Greek producers than anywhere else on the island. The signature is the boneless lamb wrapped in vine leaves and stuffed with Naxos cheese, slow-cooked in the wood oven with potatoes. Ask the sommelier for a Tinian Mavrotragano or a small-batch Paros white. Book ahead.
Since 2007All-Greek wine listBook ahead
InsiderHand the bottle decision to the sommelier, off the handwritten list; that choice is half the night. It books out in season, so reserve days ahead, and build the meal around the boneless lamb in vine leaves.
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SoSo
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Must orderoven-roasted lamb shank in lemon sauce
A tiny back-alley restaurant in Naoussa. Chef-owner Kalypso Sifnaiou ("Soso") cooks in a room small enough that the open kitchen and the dining floor are basically the same space; her husband Petros holds the door. Fusion Greek with global ingredients, handled with restraint: lamb shank in lemon sauce, pork fillet in mustard, careful portions. Every chair, every table, every light handmade by Petros. Reserve a week ahead in August; in shoulder season a few days will do.
Chef Kalypso "Soso" SifnaiouTiny back-alley roomReserve 1 week ahead
InsiderIt's Kalypso's kitchen, but order Petros's youvetsi too: the slow-cooked orzo with veal is the dish her husband, who runs the room, is known for, alongside the lamb shank. A handful of tables under a vine arbour; call a few days ahead, a week in August.
Glafkos
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Must orderfried calamari + grilled whole sardines
A family taverna on a small beach cove a short walk from Naoussa: a few tables on the water, a hand-written daily list, and no ambitions beyond the cove, which is why it works. The fried calamari is the textbook version, golden and not chewy; the sardines come grilled whole. Walk-ins only, and cash is easier than card.
Beachfront tavernaWalk-ins · cash easierShort walk from Naoussa
InsiderNo reservations; turn up before the sunset rush or you'll wait for a table at the water's edge. Past the calamari and sardines, the seafood saganaki and a whole grilled sea bream are the orders to copy.
Siparos
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Must ordertuna tartare + sea-salt-baked fish
A modern Greek seafood room on the road to Santa Maria beach, just east of Naoussa; the long beach lunch the Naoussa hotel crowd cabs over for. The kitchen leans contemporary on Cycladic ingredients: tuna tartare, fried calamari, whole fish baked in sea salt. Open roughly Easter through October. Reserve the table closest to the water.
On the way to Santa MariaModern Greek seafoodReserve water-side
InsiderBook the water's-edge table and take the seating about an hour before sundown; it fills first, for reasons that become obvious. Beyond the shrimp, the tuna tartare and the sea-salt-baked whole fish are the standouts.