Get genuinely lost in Castello

East of the Arsenale, Castello stops being a tourist neighborhood and turns back into a working Venetian one — laundry strung between windows, kids playing in campi, residents stopping to talk in the middle of the calle. Walk from San Zaccaria east toward Via Garibaldi and the Giardini. There's nothing to "see." That's the point. Eat at El Refolo or Local. End at the Sant'Elena park for the only real green space in central Venice.

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