Frari Basilica — Titian's church

The Franciscan basilica nobody queues for, which holds two of the great altarpieces in Western art: Titian's Assumption of the Virgin (1518) above the main altar, and his Pesaro Madonna in the left nave. Titian himself is buried inside. So is Canova, in his own pyramid tomb. Cold stone, brown brick, candle-smoke smell, and a Donatello wooden John the Baptist that almost no one looks at. €5 is the best art-to-euro ratio in the city.

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