Cagliari · Mercato di San Benedetto

The largest covered food market in Italy and one of the largest in Europe, on two floors — fish on the ground floor, meat and produce upstairs. The Cagliari version of Palermo's Capo: shouting, ice, bottarga in eight forms, sea urchins by the half-kilo (€10), and the pace of a real working market that hasn't been tidied up for tourists. Open until 2 p.m., Monday to Saturday. Don't eat breakfast first.

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