Autunno in Barbagia village weekends

Every weekend from September to early December, a different Barbagia village opens its courtyards, cellars, and kitchens to visitors — porceddu cooked underground, Cannonau by the carafe, weaving and mask-making demos, the works. Mamoiada (carnival mask town) and Oliena (down the road from Su Gologone) are the two best dates. The closest most travelers get to a real Sardinian village life — and the off-season window when prices crash.

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