Ragusa Ibla · the Montalbano town

A perfect Baroque hill town — Ibla is the lower, older half of Ragusa, rebuilt after 1693 and clinging to a sandstone ridge above a gorge. Walk down from the upper town (Ragusa Superiore) via the 242 steps of Santa Maria delle Scale at sunset. Locals use it as the dinner destination; you'll recognise it from every Inspector Montalbano episode. Have dinner at Ristorante Duomo (2 Michelin stars, Ciccio Sultano) if you can get in — it's one of the great restaurants of southern Italy.

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