La Pescheria · Catania's fish market

Beneath the Piazza del Duomo in Catania, a daily fish market that's been operating for centuries — swordfish split open on marble counters, tuna heads on ice, octopus still moving, fishmongers shouting in dialect. Go at 7:30 a.m. when the boats have just unloaded. Walk the perimeter, watch them work, take coffee at Caffè del Duomo on the corner. Then go to Antica Marina for lunch — they source from this market an hour earlier.

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