Ballarò & Vucciria · Palermo street-food walk

Ballarò is the most chaotic of Palermo's three open-air markets — Albergheria district, daily except Sunday, runs from a fish-and-produce show in the morning to a street-food alley in the afternoon. Walk it from the Chiesa del Carmine end, past the cluster of stigghiole grills, the panelle stalls, the fishmongers calling prices in Sicilian dialect. End at Casa Stagnitta for an espresso. Cash only; small notes only. Vucciria, ten minutes north, is smaller, grittier, more nocturnal.

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