Bari Vecchia at sunset

Bari is not what Puglia is sold on, and that's the appeal. The old town is dense, working-class, openly Italian, full of basilicas, fishermen, and pensioners playing cards on the corner. Walk Strada delle Orecchiette (the pasta street) in the morning, the seawall at sunset, and have dinner in any unmarked door past Piazza Mercantile. One day, no museums. Just the place.

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