San Miniato al Monte at dusk

A Romanesque basilica on the hill above Piazzale Michelangelo — older than the Duomo, quieter than any museum, entirely free. The monks sing Gregorian vespers at 5:30 p.m. on weekdays. Arrive at 5:15. The light through the marble facade in late afternoon is the detail every guidebook lands on. They're right.

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