Oltrarno morning walk

Cross the Ponte Vecchio first thing, before the jewelers open and the tour groups arrive, and walk south into the Oltrarno. The Piazza Santo Spirito has a market most mornings. Via Maggio is Florence's antique-dealer street. The leather workshops between Pitti and the Ponte Vecchio are open to visitors who ask. This is the version of Florence that actually exists alongside the postcard one.

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