Cascate del Mulino — Saturnia hot springs

Steaming, aquamarine pools cascading over travertine terraces — the photograph everyone has seen of Tuscany's wild thermal springs. Free, open 24/7, naturally heated to about 37°C by sulphurous water from an extinct volcano. The crowd by 10 a.m. is dense; the experience at dawn or after dark is the actual one. Bring reef shoes — the rocks are slick. Skip the swimsuit jewelry — the sulphur tarnishes silver.

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