Destinations Italy The Dolomites
Italy · Northeast Alps

The Dolomites

6 regions
Three languages
Pink at sunset
UNESCO peaks

Italy, but not the Italy you've been to. The Dolomites are limestone towers, Ladin villages where everyone speaks three languages, and the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the country — most of them inside hotels you wouldn't expect. Eighteen peaks over 3,000 metres. Roads that switchback through every postcard. Cortina is the famous one. Alta Badia is the quiet, expensive, gastronomic one. Val Gardena is the hiker's base. Don't try to do it all in five days. Pick two valleys, drive between them once, and leave the third for next trip. Hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics — book early either way.

A note from Hala

The Dolomites are the only part of Italy where you order in Italian, get answered in German, and read the menu in Ladin — a Romance dialect older than either. The food is half-Tyrolean (speck, knödel, strudel) and half-Italian (handmade pasta, Aperol on the terrace), and somehow both at once. The peaks are pale grey at noon and bright pink at sunset — the locals call it enrosadira. The hotels run quietly toward Michelin stars almost as a side effect; this is the densest gastronomic mountain region in Europe.

Rent a car. The trains stop at the edge of the range and the best valleys are an hour past the last station. Pick one base in the west (Val Gardena or Alta Badia) and one in the east (Cortina) and split your time. Skip the urge to circle the whole region — the roads are gorgeous and slow, and you'll lose half your trip behind a tour bus on a switchback. One valley done properly beats three valleys half-seen.

Pink limestone, three languages, the best mountain food in Europe. Don't rush it.
Quick take

Two seasons that work, two that don't. Late June through mid-September is the hiking window — wildflowers in June, the rifugios all open, lifts running, lakes their proper colour. January and February is the ski window — Dolomiti Superski connects twelve resorts on one pass. May and October–November are the in-between months: half the lifts are closed, weather is unpredictable, and most luxury hotels shut down entirely for spring and autumn changeovers. April is mud season — beautiful but unworkable. With Milano-Cortina hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics (Feb 6–22), Cortina specifically will be impossible to book without serious advance planning.

Know before you go

The regions.

Six valleys, three cultures, one mountain range. Cortina d'Ampezzo on the east — Italian-speaking, glamorous, Olympic. Alta Badia in the centre — Ladin, gastronomic, the Michelin density. Val Gardena to the west — German-leaning, the hikers' base. Alpe di Siusi above it — Europe's largest alpine meadow, car-free in season. Val di Funes north — the postcard church under the Odle peaks. Alta Pusteria at the top — Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, the eastern light. Pick one or two and stay properly.

A hand-drawn outline of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo peaks
01

Cortina d'Ampezzo

The Queen of the Dolomites · Olympic 2026

The famous one. Italian-speaking (it sits in the Veneto, not South Tyrol), glamorous in a fur-lined-Loro-Piana way, and the most accessible base — two hours from Venice Marco Polo. The Corso Italia is the shopping street; Cinque Torri, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Lago di Sorapis and Lago di Braies are all within an hour. Hosts the 2026 Winter Olympics (Feb 6–22) jointly with Milan. Mandarin Oriental Cristallo reopens late 2026; Aman absorbed Rosa Alpina an hour west. Book a year ahead for Olympic season — six months ahead otherwise.

Tre CimeOlympics 20262hr from Venice
02

Alta Badia

Ladin valleys · Michelin density · the quiet luxury one

The gastronomic heart. Six villages — Corvara, San Cassiano, La Villa, Badia, La Val, Colfosco — strung along a single valley between two natural parks, with the highest concentration of Michelin stars per capita in Italy. Aman Rosa Alpina in San Cassiano is the headline opening. Hotel La Perla in Corvara is the family-run alternative with its own one-star (La Stüa de Michil). Sellaronda ski circuit runs straight through. Quieter, less seen, more expensive per night than Cortina. The pick if you came to eat.

Aman Rosa AlpinaMichelin starsSellaronda
03

Val Gardena

Seceda · the hikers' base · German-Ladin

If you came to hike, base here. Three villages — Ortisei (the prettiest), Santa Cristina, Selva — running up the valley, with lift access to Seceda (the jagged ridge that's the trip's photograph), Alpe di Siusi, Sassolungo and the Sella Group all from town. Best base if you don't have a car: the Mobilcard included with most hotels covers buses, trains, and lifts across the region. Wood-shingled houses, geranium balconies, German more common than Italian. Adler Spa Resort is the wellness landmark.

SecedaOrtiseiNo car needed
04

Alpe di Siusi

Europe's largest high alpine meadow · car-free

A 56-square-kilometre plateau at 2,000 metres — Europe's biggest high-altitude meadow, with the Sassolungo and Sciliar peaks framing it. Cars banned during the day (9 a.m.–5 p.m. in summer, locals and hotel guests excepted) — you arrive by cable car from Ortisei or Siusi. The hiking is gentler than Seceda or Tre Cime: rolling, photogenic, suitable for less serious walkers. COMO Alpina Dolomites and Adler Lodge Alpe are the two upscale stays directly on the meadow. Sunrise here is the moment.

Car-freeSunrise hikesGentle trails
05

Val di Funes

Santa Maddalena church · the postcard valley

The valley behind the photograph — the tiny baroque church of Santa Maddalena under the jagged Odle peaks (Geisler in German) that you've seen a thousand times. Quieter, smaller, more rural than Val Gardena next door — this is farming country with two main villages (Santa Maddalena, San Pietro) and a Puez-Odle Nature Park you can walk straight into. Best as a day trip from Val Gardena or Alta Badia, or one night for the sunrise. Don't expect nightlife. Expect cows.

Santa MaddalenaDay tripOdle peaks
06

Alta Pusteria

Tre Cime · Lago di Braies · the eastern light

The northeastern corner — Pusteria Valley running east from Brunico to Sesto, with the Sexten Dolomites (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the icon) anchoring the south end and Lago di Braies (the green lake from every Instagram) at the centre. Less hotel inventory than Val Gardena or Alta Badia, but the access is the point: Tre Cime hike starts at Rifugio Auronzo, ten minutes from Misurina. Dobbiaco and San Candido are the prettier base towns. Pair with Cortina (45 minutes south) rather than treating it as a standalone trip.

Tre CimeLago di BraiesPair with Cortina
Where We Eat

The table.

Dolomites food is two cuisines pretending to be one. South Tyrol cooks like Austria — speck, canederli (bread dumplings the size of a fist), schlutzkrapfen (half-moon ravioli with spinach and ricotta). Alta Badia and the Ladin valleys add their own: furtaies (a deep-fried sweet spiral), tutres (sauerkraut and poppy-seed pastry), wines made from Schiava and Lagrein. Cortina, sitting in the Veneto, leans more Italian — handmade casunziei with poppy seeds, polenta with venison ragù. Three Michelin stars now belong to Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler in Brunico — the densest Michelin region in Italy. Below: eleven restaurants. Nothing extra.

Cortina & the Ampezzo Valley

Cortina cooks Italian, not Tyrolean — the Veneto influence shows in the polenta, the cicchetti, and the wine list. Two restaurants matter most: SanBrite for the regenerative, hyper-local approach; Tivoli for the classical, Chef Graziano Prest's lifetime project. Plus one casual sibling worth driving up for. Book everything, especially Olympic season.

SanBrite, Cortina d'Ampezzo — Riccardo Gaspari's Michelin-starred regenerative kitchen

Courtesy of SanBrite

SanBrite

€€€€
Must orderthe full tasting menu · their own cheese

Riccardo Gaspari and Ludovica Rubbini's one-Michelin-star plus a Green Star, ten minutes from Cortina centre — ten tables in recycled wood, food from their own farm, Gaspari trained under Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana before opening in 2017. The dinner opens with mountains of his father's whipped butter, then the Herbarium of raw berries, leaves, fermented bits — the mountain-pine spaghetti is the dish, the milk-and-larch-bud gelato finishes it. Bookings open a month ahead; take the waitlist if needed.

Località Alverà1 Michelin + Green StarBook a month out
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El Brite de Larieto, Cortina — swap for photo

El Brite de Larieto

€€€
Must ordercasunziei all'ampezzana · grilled meats

SanBrite's casual sibling — the Gaspari family agriturismo at 1,800 metres in a larch wood off the road to Misurina, where the project started nearly two decades before the star. The simpler version of Riccardo's cooking: casunziei (beet ravioli with their own ricotta), grilled lamb and pork from their stable, all the butter, cheese, and salumi from the farm behind. Lunch on the terrace in summer is the move; closed most of November and mid-April to mid-May.

Larieto wood · 1,800mAgriturismoLunch terrace
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Tivoli, Cortina d'Ampezzo — swap for photo

Tivoli

€€€€
Must orderwhatever came in from Chioggia that morning

Chef Graziano Prest's one-Michelin-star — Cortina's other star, and the older one. Unlike everything else in this valley, Tivoli cooks Venetian, not Tyrolean: fish arrives by van from Chioggia at sunrise, served as gnocchi with cuttlefish ink, scampi crudo, soft-shell crab in season. Warm-lit old-Cortina room — Loden coats, sommelier in a vest, locals at the corner tables; the lunch tasting is the better-value way in. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Località Lacedel1 MichelinVenetian seafood
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Alta Badia & the Ladin valleys

The densest Michelin region in Italy, eight stars across a valley with under 10,000 residents. Norbert Niederkofler — who started the "Cook the Mountain" philosophy at the old Rosa Alpina St. Hubertus — now runs Atelier Moessmer in Brunico (three stars + Green Star). Hotel La Perla in Corvara has its own one-star. Aman took over Rosa Alpina in 2025. The Ladin cooking is the hook: tutres, furtaies, schlutzkrapfen — none of which exist anywhere else.

Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, Brunico — entrance porch of the Michelin three-star restaurant

Courtesy of Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler

Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler

€€€€€
Must orderthe full tasting · "Cook the Mountain"

Three Michelin stars plus a Green Star — the highest-rated restaurant in the Dolomites, Niederkofler's flagship reborn at Atelier Moessmer in Brunico in 2023 after he closed St. Hubertus when Rosa Alpina became Aman. Six tables, one menu, every ingredient sourced within South Tyrol (no citrus, no outside olive oil) — trout aged like beef, mountain herbs harvested at altitude that morning, fermentation programs that take years. Wine list runs Alto Adige and Trentino only; dinner Wed–Sat, lunch Sat–Sun. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book three months out — the meal you'll talk about for a decade.

Brunico · Bruneck3 Michelin + Green Star3-month wait
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La Stüa de Michil at Hotel La Perla — Tyrolean stube with chandelier and window over the ski slope

Courtesy of Hotel La Perla

La Stüa de Michil

€€€€€
Must order"Awakening in the Woods" · the cheese course

One Michelin star inside Hotel La Perla in Corvara — a 17th-century Tyrolean stube with original farmhouse panelling, candlelight, eight tables — where chef Simone Cantafio cooks with Japanese precision and restraint across two tasting menus. The stunning 30,000-bottle cellar below features an entire room dedicated exclusively to Sassicaia — let head sommelier Silvio Galvan pour you a definitive vertical. Dinner only; closed Sundays. Note that operations are strictly seasonal, running from early June through late September, and mid-December through March.

Corvara · Hotel La Perla1 MichelinSassicaia vault
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AlpiNN, Plan de Corones — swap for photo

AlpiNN by Norbert Niederkofler

€€€€
Must orderspaghettone with herb powder · the tasting

Niederkofler's casual project at 2,275 metres on top of Plan de Corones (inside the Lumen mountain photography museum) — an all-glass dining box hanging off the summit, the Dolomites filling every window. "Cook the Mountain" in its democratic form: à la carte at lunch, four-course tasting at dinner (five tables, book ahead). The spaghettone with mountain-herb powder is the dish. Cable car from Bruneck, Riscone, or San Vigilio; last car back at 5 p.m. — do not miss it.

Plan de Corones · 2,275mCable car accessLast car 5pm
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Maso Runch, Pedraces — swap for photo

Maso Runch

€€
Must orderthe fixed Ladin menu · tutres · furtaies

A Ladin wood-shingled farmhouse outside Pedraces run by the Frenademez family for generations — no menu, six courses, the food of these valleys the way grandmothers did it: barley soup with speck, tutres, schlutzkrapfen, smoked pork with cabbage, semifreddo, furtaies. €51 for the whole sequence, plus wine — often a glass of grappa to close. Six tables; book a week ahead — the single best-value meal you'll eat on the trip. Closed Sundays.

Pedraces · Alta BadiaFixed menu €51Closed Sun
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Val Gardena & Val di Fassa

Two of the lesser-covered valleys for food, and both worth the drive. Anna Stuben in Ortisei is the Val Gardena Michelin anchor — modern, lighter-handed, the Bernardi family's gourmet room. South in Val di Fassa, Malga Panna in Moena has held a Michelin star for over thirty-two consecutive years — Paolo Donei got his first in 1993 at nineteen. Two restaurants, two valleys, very different energy, both unmissable if you're nearby.

Anna Stuben, Ortisei — swap for photo

Anna Stuben

€€€€
Must orderthe Reimund Brunner degustation

One Michelin star inside the Bernardi family's Gardena Grödnerhof in Ortisei (the hotel has been there since 1923) — chef Reimund Brunner cooks with a lighter hand than the Tyrolean default (less butter, less sugar, more vegetable): pumpkin with seasoned buffalo cheese, beetroot gnocchi with cave-aged cheese, Villnöss lamb with thyme gremolata. Sommelier Egon Perathoner runs a 650-label cellar; ask for an Alto Adige white you wouldn't think to order. Mon–Sat 7–9 p.m., closed Sunday — book months ahead in ski season.

Ortisei · Via Vidalong 31 Michelin · 4 Gault Millau toquesClosed Sun
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Malga Panna, Moena — swap for photo

Malga Panna

€€€€
Must orderthe Donei tasting · whatever's foraged that week

Paolo Donei's one-Michelin-star (held over thirty years uninterrupted, first awarded in 1993 when Donei was nineteen) inside a 19th-century malga at 1,400 metres above Moena — the Donei family farmstead since the 1950s, glass-walled dining room cantilevered out toward Val di Fassa. The Trentino tradition rewritten: wild herbs from surrounding pastures, in-house smoked and brined meats, plates that look more Tokyo than Tyrol. Standard tasting menus run €70 to €140 — and on a handful of exclusive event dates each summer, Donei runs 'Il pane e il cuore,' a six-course menu at €20, a deliberate provocation against fine-dining inflation. Closed Mondays and Tuesday lunch; 45 min from Corvara, 1h45 from Cortina.

Moena · Val di Fassa · 1,400m1 Michelin · 30+ yearsClosed Mon/Tue lunch
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Rifugios & mountain huts

The rifugio is the Dolomites' best invention. Originally Alpine Club shelters for serious climbers, half of them now serve some of the best mountain food in Europe at 2,000 metres — knödel in broth, polenta with venison, homemade strudel — and most have a few simple rooms upstairs if you want to sleep at altitude. Open roughly mid-June through late September. Reservations required for lunch, mandatory for overnight stays. Cash often preferred.

Rifugio Lavarella, Fanes — swap for photo

Rifugio Lavarella

€€
Must orderthe house beer · canederli

Europe's highest microbrewery — four Reinheitsgebot beers brewed in-house at 2,050 metres by Hungarian brewer Gábor Sógorka, inside Fanes-Sennes-Braies Natural Park, two hours' hike from Pederü Berggasthaus. The kitchen runs serious Ladin food (canederli, schlutzkrapfen, smoked meats from the valley below) and the dining room looks at the white walls of the Lavarella massif. Eight rooms upstairs (book months ahead in summer); open mid-June to early October.

Fanes Park · 2,050mHighest microbrewery in Europe2hr hike in
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Rifugio Fuciade, Passo San Pellegrino — swap for photo

Rifugio Fuciade

€€€
Must ordercajoncìe · polenta gnocchetti with herb pesto

The Rossi family's Michelin-listed rifugio in an Alpine basin above Passo San Pellegrino — rebuilt from an old hay barn in 1983, son Martino now in the kitchen, a 40-minute larch-wood walk in. Cajoncìe (the traditional crescent ravioli of the Val di Fassa), polenta gnocchetti with smoked ricotta, veal stew, wild-herb risottos, and the most serious wine list (600 labels) in any rifugio in the range. Guest rooms upstairs — book months ahead for the dinner-with-stay package; it's the move.

Passo San Pellegrino · 1,972mIn the Michelin Guide · 600 labels40-min walk / snowcat
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Rifugio Scotoni, Lagazuoi — swap for photo

Rifugio Scotoni

€€
Must orderthe mixed grill · pork ribs

The grill rifugio at 1,985 metres under the Lagazuoi peaks, Agreiter family for the last 50 years — 30 minutes from the Lagazuoi cable car, smoking and grilling meats over wood the same way for decades. The mixed grill (pork ribs, sausage, polenta, sometimes lamb) is the order, brought on a wood board, paired with Lagrein from the carafe. A famous toboggan stop on the Armentarola ski run in winter, a hiking lunch stop in summer. Closed Tuesdays in summer; cash preferred.

Lagazuoi · 1,985mWood-fired grillClosed Tue
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Rifugio Averau — above Cinque Torri with the Tofane view, Cortina d'AmpezzoCourtesy of Rifugio Averau

Rifugio Averau

€€€
Must ordertagliolini al ragù · the wine list

The fanciest rifugio in the eastern Dolomites — at 2,413 metres above Cinque Torri near Cortina, with a Tofane view and a wine list (170 Italian and European labels) that goes properly deep. Siorpaes family kitchen sources most meat from their valley; tagliolini al ragù di cervo is the dish, the strudel for dessert is legitimate. Four private suites upstairs (complete with en-suite bathrooms and balconies) plus three shared dormitories — book a month ahead in summer for the sunset (the enrosadira on Tofana is one of the great Dolomites moments). Chairlift from Bai de Dones, or 30 min up from Rifugio Scoiattoli; mid-June to mid-October.

Cinque Torri · 2,413mSunset viewReservations essential
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Where We Sleep

The stay.

Seven properties across three tiers, spread along the range — the most thoughtful hotel landscape in the Italian Alps. The 2026 Winter Olympics (Feb 6–22) will absorb most Cortina inventory — book a year out for those dates, six months for everywhere else. Most properties run two seasons (Dec to mid-April, mid-June to mid-October), fully closed May and November.

€€€ €350–650/night · design-forward wellness stays
Timber facade
Pine-clad suite
Sixth-floor sauna
Bar de Len
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"De Len" is Ladin for "wood," and the building takes the name seriously — the former Hotel Impero, locally crafted timber inside and out, every room with Swiss Optimal Living Society certification for sleep quality. Just off Corso Italia at Via Cesare Battisti 66, two minutes' walk to every shop and restaurant in central Cortina. The sixth-floor spa has the best views of any wellness floor in town, plus a Finnish sauna, ice fountain, steam bath, and outdoor jacuzzi. Bar de Len downstairs serves barrel-aged cocktails in a speakeasy-lit room that's also one of the better evening crowds in the village. Run by the same Italian group that has Borgo Egnazia in Puglia, which tells you the level of detail to expect. The price-to-design sweet spot in central Cortina.

What it's known for
Locally crafted timber across the whole property
Sixth-floor wellness with Cortina views
Bar de Len — barrel-aged cocktails, speakeasy energy
Same group as Borgo Egnazia, Puglia
NeighborhoodCortina · Corso Italia (central)
Rate range€530–1,800/night
Best forDesign-led travelers · first-time Cortina · short stays
Walk toCorso Italia 1 min · Tofana lift 8 min
Good to know
Olympic season Feb 2026 = book by mid-2025
Ask for a Corso-side room over a courtyard one
Spa closed to public — guests only
InsiderThe corner suites on the upper floors get morning light into the bedroom and afternoon light onto the terrace — book one of those over a standard room. Bar de Len doesn't need to be booked even in season; it just runs better.
Book direct ↗
ADLER Lodge Alpe — outdoor edge pool, meadow stretching to SassolungoPhoto: Alex FilzEdge pool · Sassolungo on the horizon
ADLER Lodge Alpe — pine-clad chalet suite with plaid reading benchPhoto: Alex FilzChalet suite · the slow afternoon
ADLER Lodge Alpe — pine forest sauna with panoramic louvered windowsPhoto: Alex FilzForest sauna · pine slats + panorama
ADLER Lodge Alpe — cathedral-beam fitness pavilion with panoramic windowsPhoto: Alex FilzFitness pavilion · cathedral beams
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Photos by Alex Filz · Courtesy of ADLER Lodge Alpe

The lodge concept that the Sanoner family — seventh generation of South Tyrolean hoteliers, owners of the Adler group — built directly on Europe's largest high-alpine meadow. Eighteen suites in a low-slung central lodge plus twelve standalone chalets in pine and stone, each with private terrace and outdoor tub, scattered around the central wellness area, which features an indoor pool, panoramic restaurant, and bar. Rates are all-inclusive: breakfast, lunchtime snacks, and a serious à la carte gourmet dinner are included alongside a curated selection of fine wines and spirits all day — easily worth what's effectively a third of the bill. The wellness program is what they're known for — guided meadow walks at sunrise, e-bike tours of the plateau, sauna ceremonies in the woods. Winter access is by cable car only; cars stay below at Compatsch and a hotel shuttle does the lift run. The point of the property is not being able to leave it without committing — and most guests don't want to.

What it's known for
Standalone chalet suites with private outdoor tubs
All-inclusive (breakfast, lunchtime snacks, à la carte dinner, fine wines and spirits all day)
Daily guided hikes / yoga / sauna ceremony
Sister property to Adler Spa Resort Dolomiti in Ortisei
NeighborhoodAlpe di Siusi · 1,800m plateau
Rate range€600–1,400/night (all-inclusive)
Best forWellness · honeymoons · car-free trips · families
Reach byCable car from Compatsch · 5 min by hotel shuttle
Good to know
Closed Nov + April–early June (twice yearly)
Minimum 3-night stay in season
All meals at the lodge; no restaurants nearby
InsiderBook a meadow-view chalet suite, not a forest-view one — the sunrise over Sassolungo from your terrace is the experience you came for, and most rooms point the wrong way. Ask for chalet 5 through 11 specifically.
Book direct ↗
€€€€ €650–1,300/night · the family-run flagships
Hotel La Perla — Bistrot with crystal chandelier and a window over the ski slopePhoto: Gustav WilleitBistrot · chandelier over the ski slope
Hotel La Perla — Suite Ernesto with carved wood headboard under coffered pine ceilingPhoto: Gustav WilleitSuite Ernesto · carved wood, coffered pine
Hotel La Perla — spa sauna with backlit pine panelsPhoto: J. FreemondSpa · backlit pine sauna
Hotel La Perla — Mahatma Wine Cellar, a long tunnel of 30,000 bottlesPhoto: Stefano ButturiniMahatma Wine Cellar · the Sassicaia vault
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Photos by Stefano Butturini, Gustav Willeit and J. Freemond · Courtesy of Hotel La Perla

The Costa family bought a small mountain inn in 1956 and have been running it as a family for three generations since — Michele Costa runs it now, his son Mathias works the floor, and the place still feels exactly like that. Antiques you can sit on. A rocking horse in a corridor. A typewriter in a guest lounge. Original 17th-century farmhouse stuben (parlour rooms) lining the public spaces, their ceilings transplanted intact from Tyrolean houses. The 48 rooms are all individually designed — book a Dolomite suite or the corner ones with their own stube. The spa is the modern counterweight: pine sauna, hammam, indoor pool with mountain view. La Stüa de Michil (one Michelin) is the restaurant; Bistrot La Perla is the casual one; the Mahatma Wine Cellar below has 30,000 bottles and a room dedicated to Sassicaia. The treehouse — yes, treehouse — does aperitivo for two with Franciacorta and house-cured salumi. Skiing from the door in winter; hiking and rock-climbing programs in summer. The genuine alternative to Aman next door, at significantly less money, with double the soul.

What it's known for
17th-century stuben transplanted from farmhouses
La Stüa de Michil · 1 Michelin star
30,000-bottle Mahatma cellar · entire room of Sassicaia
Treehouse aperitivo for two · ski-in/ski-out
NeighborhoodCorvara · Alta Badia (centre of village)
Rate range€800–2,400/night
Best forReturning Dolomites travelers · couples · gastro pilgrims
Ski / hikeSellaronda from the door · Boè cable car 3 min walk
Good to know
Closed mid-April–early June + Oct–early Dec
Sassicaia tasting requires advance booking
Leading Hotels of the World loyalty applies
InsiderSkip the standard rooms — the price-to-character upgrade to a Dolomite suite (each with its own stube and wood-burning fireplace) is enormous. Ask Mathias Costa to walk you through the Sassicaia room himself; he will, and he'll tell you which vintage to drink.
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Forestis Dolomites — penthouse bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Odle/Geisler range at sunsetCourtesy of ForestisPenthouse · the Geisler through the glass
Forestis Dolomites — moody vault bar/dining nook with single lit table and plant centerpieceCourtesy of ForestisBar · the vault
Forestis Dolomites — spa relaxation loungers in soft pine cabanas above the indoor poolCourtesy of ForestisSpa · pine loungers above the pool
Forestis Dolomites — cozy suite with pale-wood walls and balcony doors framing the mountain at duskCourtesy of ForestisSuite · dusk over the mountain
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Photos courtesy of Forestis Dolomites

The Hinteregger family's design retreat above Brixen, twenty kilometres south of the Austrian border on the Plose mountain — three new towers, sixteen original suites, and a wellness program built around what they call the "four natural gifts" (air, sun, mountain water, climate). The interior style sits somewhere between Kyoto and Kitzbühel — sparse, pale wood, stone-basin bathrooms, woven Trentino fabrics — with the Geisler range filling every wall-of-window. Adults-only (14+). Half-board comes standard and the kitchen has Michelin-grade ambition; book the tasting menu at least one night. The spa is one of the largest in the range — three pools, five saunas, salt grotto and ice fountain — and the property sits directly on the Plose ski slopes (part of the multi-resort Dolomiti Superski network, with Val Gardena reachable via a 40-minute drive). Three-night minimum in high season. The single most photographed hotel room in the Dolomites for a reason.

What it's known for
Three tower suites with floor-to-ceiling Geisler views
Half-board with serious seasonal tasting menus
Adults-only · 14+ minimum age
Ski-to-door on Plose · 40 min drive to Val Gardena
NeighborhoodPlose mountain · 20 km above Brixen/Bressanone
Rate range€870–3,500/night (half-board incl.)
Best forCouples · wellness · design pilgrims · digital detox
Reach by40 min drive from Bolzano · 90 min from Innsbruck
Good to know
3-night minimum in high season
Adults-only — children under 14 not accepted
Closed early April–mid May + mid-Nov–early Dec
InsiderBook a Tower Suite, not an Original Suite — the price gap exists for a reason. The three towers each have wraparound walls of glass and a traditional tiled stove that the staff will light for you on request. Skip the spa at peak hours (5–7 p.m. is full); the morning slot is empty and feels like the building was built for you alone.
Book direct ↗
ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti — architectural sauna pavilions over a reflecting pondPhoto: Alex FilzSauna pavilions · over the pond
ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti — lobby with crystal chandelier under exposed Tyrolean wood beamsPhoto: Alex FilzLobby · Tyrolean wood + crystal
ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti — guest suite with pine ceiling rosette and dark velvet headboardCourtesy of ADLER Spa Resort DolomitiSuite · pine + velvet, carved ceiling
ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti — dining room with white linens, daffodils, panoramic windowsPhoto: Alex FilzDining room · daffodils + panorama
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Photos by Alex Filz · Courtesy of ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti

The Sanoner-family flagship in Ortisei, the elder sister of Adler Lodge Alpe and Adler Lodge Ritten. The original opened in 1810; what's there now is a 108-room resort behind a traditional Tyrolean facade, anchored by a 4,000-square-metre spa with indoor and outdoor pools, twelve different saunas (yes, twelve), a salt grotto, a Finnish forest sauna, and the largest hydrotherapy circuit in the region. Half-board is the standard; the kitchen runs to South Tyrolean classics with a wellness-leaning lighter version available at every meal. Rooms are pine-clad, balconied, and quietly luxurious — not flashy. Daily activity program includes guided hikes with the in-house guides, climbing classes, yoga at sunrise, snowshoeing in winter. Two minutes from Ortisei's pedestrian centre and the Seceda lift station. The pick if your trip is wellness-led or if hiking is the primary activity.

What it's known for
12 saunas + indoor-outdoor pool + salt grotto
Daily guided hike / climb / yoga program
Half-board with serious kitchen
2 min walk to Seceda cable car
NeighborhoodOrtisei · Val Gardena (centre)
Rate range€700–1,600/night (half-board incl.)
Best forWellness · hiking · families · couples · multi-gen
Walk toSeceda cable car 2 min · Via Rezia 1 min
Good to know
Open year-round except brief Nov closure
Free Mobilcard for buses & trains across South Tyrol
Kids club from age 3 · separate family pool
InsiderBook the Suite Dolomiti, not a standard room — the price gap is smaller than you'd think and you get an ultra-spacious layout with elegant natural wood framing spectacular views over the Ortisei valley. Reserve a guided hike with Hubert; he's the senior in-house guide and the best one.
Book direct ↗
€€€€€ €1,400+/night · the once-a-decade splurges
Pale-oak suite
Infinity pool
Aman spa
The Grill terrace
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A €69-million rebuild by Aman and architect Jean-Michel Gathy of the Pizzinini family's three-generation hotel in the centre of San Cassiano, reopened in July 2025. Fifty-one keys (rooms, suites, signature suites, plus the standalone two-bedroom Chalet Zeno), all redrawn in pale oak, limestone and glass — Aman's house style replacing what was previously antler chandeliers and pine panelling. The famous three-Michelin-star St. Hubertus is gone with Norbert Niederkofler (now at Atelier Moessmer); in its place, five dining venues — The Grill (wood-fire Italian, the headline restaurant), Il Salotto (piano-bar lounge), Akari/Enju (Japanese shabu-shabu in winter), a breakfast room with live cooking stations, and the Di Vino wine library for private dinners. The new spa runs 2,800 square metres with three pools (one outdoor 65-foot infinity), seven treatment rooms, hammam, Jacuzzi, and a hydrotherapy circuit. Two private mountain cabins owned by the Pizzinini family come with the stay for wood-fired lunches on day excursions. Helicopter transfers available — Venice 45 min, Bolzano 22 min. Two seasons: June–mid-October and early December–mid-April. The summit of Dolomites hospitality, the price to match it, and the single most polished base for the 2026 Olympic season.

What it's known for
Jean-Michel Gathy redesign · €69m rebuild · 2025
65-foot outdoor infinity pool · Dolomite view
Two private Pizzinini family mountain cabins
Helicopter transfers from Venice, Bolzano, Innsbruck
NeighborhoodSan Cassiano · Alta Badia · 1,550m
Rate range€1,600–4,500/night
Best forHoneymoons · once-a-decade · Olympics 2026
ReachVenice 2hr 30min · Bolzano 1hr 30min · helicopter 22–45 min
Good to know
Closed mid-Oct–early Dec + mid-April–mid-June
Not ski-in/ski-out — shuttle to Piz Sorega lift
Book Virtuoso for upgrade + property credit
InsiderThe lower-floor rooms have larger balconies and direct garden access; the upper-floor ones have the Dolomite view but smaller terraces. If the view matters, take a Rosa Alpina Suite (averaging 130m²) over a deluxe — the price gap is significant, but the cubic-metre count of the view is what you're actually paying for. Book a wood-fired cabin lunch even if you're only there three nights; it's the single best meal on the property.
Book direct ↗
Art nouveau facade
Suite with balcony
Indoor-outdoor pool
View of the Tofane
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The grande dame of Cortina — opened in 1901 by the Menardi family in full art-nouveau style, host to Frank Sinatra, Saul Bellow, Vladimir Nabokov, and the U.S. Olympic team during the 1956 Games. Closed since 2023 and being completely rebuilt by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron under Mandarin Oriental's first alpine project. The reopening keeps moving — originally planned for summer 2025, now confirmed for Q4 2026. When it does come back, it will have 84 keys (54 rooms + 30 suites, most with balconies), an extensive new spa with an indoor-outdoor swimming pool that transverses the building, multiple restaurants and bars, a kids' club, and the original art-nouveau bones restored. Sits five minutes above the centre of Cortina with the Tofane range as a backdrop. The location nobody can fake; the renovation that has the entire town watching. Worth flagging if your trip is post-Olympic 2026 — for everything before that, the property is closed.

What it's known for
1901 art-nouveau original · Herzog & de Meuron rebuild
Mandarin Oriental's first alpine resort
Indoor-outdoor pool transversing the building
Original setting of 1956 Olympic US team practice
NeighborhoodCortina · Via Rinaldo Menardi (above town)
Rate rangeTBA (expect €1,500+/night opening)
Best forPost-Olympic 2026 · grande-dame fans · Cortina-first trips
StatusClosed · Reopening Q4 2026
Good to know
Not bookable until late 2026 — check direct
Mandarin Fans of M.O. loyalty applies
Closer to ski lift than Hotel de Len (5 min drive)
InsiderIf your trip is in 2027 or later, this should be the first place you check inventory for Cortina — even before the in-town hotels. The 30 specialty suites all have private balconies facing the Tofane, and the price-to-room ratio will undercut a deluxe room at the same level. The pre-Olympic period through Q3 2026 is the closure window.
Book direct ↗
What it costs

The honest budget.

No other Dolomites guide tells you this straight. Three real daily budgets, with the actual hotel, lunch, dinner, lift, and drink that get you to the total. Pick a column, build a trip around it.

Honest

Done well, not done lavishly.

€220 · per person · per day

A great trip without the splurge. A solid family-run pension, lunch at a rifugio, dinner in town, one lift a day. You're not paying for marble.

Stay
Garni or pension€120 / night
Lunch
Rifugio canederli€18
Dinner
Maso Runch fixed menu€51
Lift
Mont Sëuc cable car€39
Drink
Hugo at any bar€8
Daily total€230

Excludes flights and car rental (~€60/day). Most South Tyrol stays include the free Mobilcard, which covers buses & trains across the region.

Comfortable

The way most readers travel.

€450 · per person · per day

A real wellness hotel with half-board, a serious lunch up the mountain, a one-Michelin dinner once. The sweet spot, and what we'd book ourselves.

Stay
Hotel de Len or ADLER Spa€280 / night pp
Lunch
AlpiNN at altitude€60
Dinner
Half-board included— in stay —
Lift
Seceda round trip€74
Drink
Bar de Len barrel-aged€18
Daily total€432

Half-board changes the math — the included dinner usually saves €80–120 a day vs. eating out.

The whole thing

Once a decade. No corners cut.

€950+ · per person · per day

Aman or La Perla, lunch at Atelier Moessmer, dinner at La Stüa de Michil, ski guide, the Sassicaia. The Dolomites at the top of their game.

Stay
Aman Rosa Alpina suite€800 / night pp
Weekend Lunch
Atelier Moessmer 3☆€280
Dinner
La Stüa de Michil 1☆€220
Lift · Guide
Private ski guide€420 / day total
Drink
Sassicaia tasting€95
Daily total€1,395

Helicopter transfers from Venice add €1,200–1,800 one-way. Olympic season Feb 2026 expect 30–50% premium on top.

A real note. The middle column is where most of you will land — and it's where we'd book ourselves. The €220 trip is genuinely great. The €950 one is genuinely worth it once. Anywhere in between is fine.

What We Do

The hikes & the rest.

The Dolomites are a hiking and skiing place first — the rest orbits around those two. In summer, lift access turns 3,000-metre peaks into a 15-minute ride; in winter, the Dolomiti Superski pass gets you onto 1,200 kilometres of connected slopes across twelve resorts. Below: six hikes worth flying for, three winter options, one museum, one tandem flight. Most lifts run late May through early November and mid-December through early April — May, October and November are the dead zones.

A

A walk is a walk. The cable car is a feature, not a failure.

Seceda viewpoint Alpe di Siusi plateau Lago di Braies loop

SkipTre Cime full loop, Lago di Sorapis, anything with the word "cables" in it.

B

The hiking boots in the closet are not just for the photo.

Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop Adolf Munkel Trail Lago di Sorapis

SkipVia ferrata routes. The Tre Cime loop gives you the limestone amphitheatre without the harness.

C

Vertigo is for other people. You own a harness.

Lago di Sorapis The whole Sellaronda in a day Alta Via 1 multi-day

AddAlta Via 1, eight to ten days from Braies to Belluno. Upon Request can build it.

A real note. The trip people regret is the one where they over-estimated themselves on day one and lost the rest to a sore knee. Save the big day for day three.

01Pre-book 2026

Seceda Ridgeline

Val Gardena · cable car from Ortisei

The jagged-saw ridgeline that's the trip's photograph. Take the Ortisei–Furnes–Seceda cableway up (two cars, transfer at Furnes), walk ten minutes to the viewpoint, then keep going along the ridge as far as you want. From summer 2026, the cableway runs on a timed-entry system — book online ahead, tickets sold in 30-minute slots. Show up without one and you may not get on. Afternoon light is better than morning for the photo; morning is better for the hike (cooler, emptier).

€74 round trip · 2026 10-min walk to view Late May–early Nov
Book direct ↗
02Full loop · 4-5 hrs

Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop

Alta Pusteria · trailhead at Rifugio Auronzo

The signature Dolomites hike. Ten kilometres around the three limestone spires — Cima Grande, Cima Ovest, Cima Piccola — at around 2,300 metres, four to five hours at a normal pace, moderate but not technical. The toll road from Misurina up to Rifugio Auronzo costs €30 per car and opens end of May, closes end of October. Go counterclockwise (turns the best view into your final approach). Lunch at Rifugio Auronzo or Rifugio Locatelli mid-loop. Start by 9 a.m. to beat the bus tours coming up from Cortina.

10 km · 340m gain €30 toll road End May–end Oct
Book direct ↗
03Easy · 2-3 hrs

Adolf Munkel Trail

Val di Funes · Puez-Odle Nature Park

The other side of the Odle peaks — same jagged limestone group as Seceda, but seen from the north under Santa Maddalena church. A ten-kilometre loop through pine forest and meadow, sustained moderate but never steep. Trailhead at Zanser Alm or Ranui parking; the latter has the famous church viewpoint included. Quieter than Seceda by a long way. Rifugio delle Odle midway makes a strong lunch stop — order the schlutzkrapfen.

10 km loop Forest + meadow Quieter than Seceda
Book direct ↗
04Strenuous

Lago di Sorapis

Cortina · Passo Tre Croci trailhead

A turquoise glacial lake at 1,925 metres at the base of the Sorapis massif — Gatorade-Glacier-Freeze blue, the colour everyone Photoshops but in this case it actually looks like that. Trail 215 from Passo Tre Croci (a 15-minute drive from Cortina): 13 km round trip, 380 m elevation gain, four hours total, with a couple of exposed sections protected by cables. Not for vertigo. Worth every step. Pack lunch — Rifugio Vandelli at the lake is small and busy.

13 km round trip Cables · not for vertigo Jun–Sep only
Book direct ↗
05Easy · meadow

Alpe di Siusi plateau walks

Compatsch · cable car from Ortisei

Europe's largest high-altitude meadow — 56 square kilometres at 2,000 metres, surrounded by the Sassolungo, Sciliar and Catinaccio peaks. The plateau is car-free 9 a.m.–5 p.m. in summer; you arrive by Mont Sëuc cable car from Ortisei (€39 round trip) or by car if you stay overnight up top. Walks are gentle to moderate, often flat, beautiful in every direction. Sunrise at Bullaccia viewpoint is the move. Hire e-bikes at Compatsch to cover more ground.

€39 round trip Car-free 9-5 Stroller-friendly
Book direct ↗
06Iconic · short

Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee)

Alta Pusteria · Braies village

The Instagram lake. Emerald-green, with wooden rowboats lined up on a pier in front of a sheer cliff — yes, that one. Walk the 3.5-kilometre loop around the shore (45 minutes, flat, easy), rent a rowboat from the dock for an hour (€32 for 30 min, May–Oct), get there by 7 a.m. or after 5 p.m. to dodge the crowds. From mid-July through mid-September, you must pre-book a parking time slot online; no online booking, no entry by car. Park-and-ride shuttle from Dobbiaco works if you missed the slot.

Pre-book parking · Jul-Sep €32 / 30 min boat 7am or after 5pm
Book direct ↗
07Ski

The Sellaronda circuit

Four passes · one ski day

The full skiable circuit around the Sella massif — four high passes (Gardena, Sella, Pordoi, Campolongo), four valleys (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba, Val di Fassa), 26 km of skiing in a single day. Pick a direction (orange clockwise or green counterclockwise) and start by 9 a.m.; if you're not back at your starting lift by 3:30 p.m. you'll be sleeping in another valley. Intermediate level — all blue and red runs, no blacks required. Dolomiti Superski lift pass (€80–95/day) gets you on the whole network.

26 km · 1 day Lift pass €80-95 Start by 9 a.m.
Book direct ↗
08Olympics Feb 2026

Cortina ski + the Olympic runs

Cortina d'Ampezzo · Tofana, Faloria, Cinque Torri

Cortina hosted the women's alpine events of the 2026 Winter Olympics — Olympia delle Tofane is the women's downhill course, and you can ski it. The Tofana, Faloria, and Cinque Torri ski areas connect via shuttle (lift-linked is a future Olympic legacy plan). 120 km of slopes, mostly intermediate, plus the Hidden Valley / Armentarola run from Lagazuoi — a 7.5-km off-piste descent with a horse-drawn tow at the end to get you back to Alta Badia. Famously surreal.

120 km of slopes Olympics Feb 6-22 2026 Hidden Valley descent
Book direct ↗
09Snowshoe

Snowshoeing to Rifugio Fanes

Fanes-Sennes-Braies Natural Park

A two-hour guided snowshoe trek through powder-deep larch forest and silent meadows from Pederü, ending at Rifugio Fanes — same valley network as Lavarella, slightly different hut. Strudel, schnapps, sometimes a full Ladin lunch. Equipment rental from €15; guided tours from €60. Book the lunch and the hut in advance (the rifugio takes overnight stays too if you want to commit). The most photogenic winter activity in the range that doesn't require skiing.

2 hr each way Equipment €15 Book lunch ahead
Book direct ↗
10Museum

Lumen — Museum of Mountain Photography

Plan de Corones · 2,275m summit

Next door to MMM Corones, the sixth and last of Reinhold Messner's mountain museums — 1,800 square metres of mountain-photography history inside the old cable-car station on top of Plan de Corones. Curated for non-mountain people too. AlpiNN restaurant (the Niederkofler casual project, see Where We Eat) sits in the same building. Combine them. Cable car from Bruneck, Riscone, or San Vigilio; last car down at 5 p.m.

2,275m via cable car Combines with AlpiNN €12 entry
Book direct ↗
11Tandem flight

Paragliding over Alpe di Siusi

Launch from Spitzbühl, Castelrotto

There's something surreal about soaring over Europe's largest alpine meadow, especially in the golden hour when the Sassolungo turns pink and you're 800 metres above it. Tandem flights from Tandemfly with certified pilots: 15–20 minutes in the air, 90 minutes door-to-door. Best in summer when thermals are clean. Book in advance — they only run six tandems a day and they sell out. Not for the wind-shy.

From €130 15–20 min in air Summer · book ahead
Book direct ↗
3 Days

Not trying to get you to everything. The right things, in the right order.

The Dolomites, in three days.

Two bases. One drive between them. Cortina anchors the east, Alta Badia or Val Gardena the west — pick one side for two nights, the other for one. This plan assumes you're flying into Venice (or Bolzano) in summer; in winter, swap the hikes for the equivalent ski days.

Drive in from Venice Marco Polo (two hours up the A27 to Cortina). Arrive midday. Don't try to hike — adjust to the altitude, settle in, eat properly.

12:30p.m.
LunchEat

El Brite de Larieto

Larieto wood · 15 min above Cortina

Drive up to the Gaspari family's agriturismo at 1,800 metres, where the SanBrite story started. Terrace, casunziei with poppy seeds, salumi from their stable, an Aperol that arrives without needing to ask. Wakes the appetite without the pressure of dinner-out-on-arrival. Book ahead.

€€€Book aheadLunch terrace
3:00p.m.
WalkWalk

Corso Italia + the village

Cortina · pedestrian centre

Walk the Corso end to end. The shops are real (Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, plus the legitimate ski outfitters), the church of Santa Maria Assunta has a bell tower you can climb, and the people-watching at 4 p.m. — Italians arriving for aperitivo — is half the assignment. End at Cooperativa di Cortina for the local-products supermarket browse.

FreePedestrian only
6:30p.m.
DrinkDrink

Bar de Len at Hotel de Len

Cortina · Corso Italia

Barrel-aged negroni at the speakeasy bar inside the new Egnazia-group hotel. Dim light, timber room, no scene — exactly what you want after a travel day. Order the one with house-cured speck on the side.

€€Open to non-guests
8:30p.m.
DinnerEat

Tivoli

Località Lacedel · 15-min walk from Corso

Graziano Prest's one-Michelin-star. Venetian seafood in the mountains, fish from Chioggia delivered that morning. Order the gnocchi with cuttlefish ink and whatever soft-shell crab is on the menu. The lunch tasting is the better-value version, but you came for the dining room — Loden coats, sommelier in a vest. Book a month out for Sat/Sun.

€€€€1 MichelinReservation only

Walk back through Cortina at 10:30 p.m. The Tofane go pink for ten minutes before they go black. Don't miss it.

The hike day. Early start, sunrise at Tre Cime, lunch at altitude, drive to Alta Badia in the afternoon. The whole region in one day, on purpose.

6:00a.m.
Drive + climbMove

Tre Cime di Lavaredo loop

Trailhead: Rifugio Auronzo · 50 min from Cortina

Up at 5 a.m. Drive the SS48 to Misurina, then the toll road up to Rifugio Auronzo (€30). On the trail by 7 — you'll have it almost to yourself before the tour buses arrive at 10. Counterclockwise loop, four to five hours, moderate. Sunrise on the Tre Cime is one of the great alpine moments. Pack water, layers, and trail food.

10 km · 4-5 hrs€30 tollStart by 7 a.m.
12:30p.m.
Mid-loop lunchEat

Rifugio Locatelli (Drei-Zinnen-Hütte)

Tre Cime loop · 2,438m

The hut at the northern point of the loop — directly opposite the Tre Cime, with the most dramatic terrace in the eastern Dolomites. Order the canederli in broth and a slice of strudel, sit on the rocks outside. Cash. Toilets are a five-minute walk away.

€€Cash preferred
3:30p.m.
DriveMove

The drive to Alta Badia

Via Passo Falzarego · Lagazuoi · Passo Valparola

Pack out of Cortina (90 minutes door-to-door to Alta Badia, not counting stops). Drive west on the SS48 to Passo Falzarego, where you stop for the cable car up to Lagazuoi at 2,778 metres — drinks on the terrace, the view across the whole range, ten minutes total. Then descend toward La Villa or San Cassiano. Check in. Don't unpack — dinner is in 45 minutes.

90 min driveLagazuoi stopSS48 west
8:00p.m.
DinnerEat

Maso Runch

Pedraces · Alta Badia

The €51 Ladin fixed menu — barley soup, tutres, schlutzkrapfen, smoked pork, semifreddo, furtaies. Six tables. Wine extra; often a glass of grappa to close. Closed Sundays. You've just done the hardest thing on the trip; you deserve this exact meal in this exact order in this exact farmhouse. Book a week out.

€€Fixed menu €51Closed Sun

Sleep at Hotel La Perla, Aman Rosa Alpina, or wherever. You'll sleep hard.

A gentler day. The high-altitude restaurant lunch, an afternoon walk, the best meal of the trip to close it. No driving.

9:00a.m.
CoffeeEat

Hotel breakfast

Wherever you slept

Eat at the hotel; the breakfasts at the Dolomites' top-tier properties are an event and most are included in the rate. Take it slow. Read the paper. Drink two coffees.

IncludedSlow start
11:30a.m.
Cable car + lunchEat

AlpiNN by Niederkofler

Plan de Corones · 2,275m summit

Drive 40 minutes to Riscone or San Vigilio, take the cable car up to Plan de Corones. The dining room is a glass box hanging off the summit. Order the spaghettone with mountain-herb powder, the venison, and whatever fermented thing the sommelier recommends. Visit the Lumen Museum (same building) before or after. Last cable car back is 5 p.m. — do not miss it.

€€€€NiederkoflerCombine with Lumen
4:30p.m.
WalkWalk

Armentarola walk to Lagazuoi

San Cassiano · 2-hour easy walk

From the Armentarola parking, walk the 7.5-kilometre track up toward the Hidden Valley — flat, easy, with limestone walls rising on both sides. Skiers use it in winter as the famous Hidden Valley run; in summer it's a quiet path with five rifugios spread along it. Walk in 90 minutes, drink at Rifugio Lagazuoi terrace, walk back, or get the e-bike shuttle. The pink-hour view from Lagazuoi is the trip's closing shot.

7.5 km · flatHidden Valley trackSunset on Lagazuoi
8:30p.m.
DinnerEat

La Stüa de Michil

Hotel La Perla · Corvara

If you saved any meal for the last night, save this one. Simone Cantafio's one-Michelin-star inside the 17th-century stube. The "Awakening in the Woods" tasting, the cheese course, and a Sassicaia poured by head sommelier Silvio Galvan from the room downstairs that holds nothing else. Closed Sundays. Hotel guests get priority — book the moment you book the hotel.

€€€€€1 MichelinClosed Sun

Drive back to Venice in the morning. Or stay another night — there is no version of this trip where you don't immediately wish you had one more day.

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Only in the Dolomites

The dishes that define the range. Order these. In this order.

The mountain table.

Two cuisines, three languages, one range. Half of these dishes are Austrian-by-way-of-South-Tyrol. Half are Ladin or northeastern Italian. All of them — except the strudel — you will have a hard time finding anywhere else in the country.

Worth knowing

A few things.

Practical, opinionated, the kind of thing you'd ask a friend who lives there. Read all of it before the trip.

On renting a car

Yes. Always.

The train ends at Bolzano or Brunico (Bruneck), and the best valleys are 45–90 minutes past either. Buses connect the bigger valleys but they're slow and they don't reach the trailheads. Pick up the car at Venice Marco Polo, Innsbruck, or Bolzano — Venice is the easiest international airport, the others mean shorter drives. Skip Italy-only collision insurance; your credit card probably already covers it. Snow tyres are legally required from November 15 to April 15.

On the three languages

South Tyrol is bilingual. Don't fight it.

The Alto Adige / South Tyrol half of the region operates in German first, Italian second; the Veneto half (Cortina, Auronzo) flips that. Ladin runs as a third language in the five Ladin valleys (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Val di Fassa, Livinallongo, Cortina). Restaurant menus often come in three languages; village signs in two. Locals will switch to whichever you start in. English works almost everywhere, less so in the smallest farmhouses.

On lift passes

The Mobilcard is the unlock.

If your hotel is in South Tyrol (Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Alpe di Siusi, Val di Funes, Alta Pusteria), ask for the free DolomitiMobil or AlmencardPlus on check-in. They cover regional buses, trains, and most cable cars. Saves €30–80 a day per person. The Cortina (Veneto) side does not include this — you pay per lift. Dolomiti Superski pass is winter-only and skiers-only, €80–95/day, 1,200 km of slopes.

On hiking gear

Real boots. Not sneakers.

The trails are not paved paths. Even the easy ones cross loose rock, scree, and occasional patches of late-season snow. Mid-height ankle support, lugged sole, broken in before the trip. A light layer system (base, fleece, shell), water, sun cream, sunglasses — the altitude burns. Tabacco maps (the proper ones, paper, sold at any outdoor shop) for any hike beyond the lift-and-walk obvious ones. AllTrails works for routing but loses signal often.

On the Great Dolomites Road

110 km, all day, worth it.

The original tourist road through the range, built in 1909 — Bolzano through Karersee, over Passo Costalunga, past the Catinaccio massif, Canazei, Passo Pordoi, Falzarego, into Cortina. Four hours non-stop, all day if you stop properly. Coffee at Carezza, lunch at Canazei, photo stop at Pordoi cable car (2,950m), aperitivo at Lagazuoi sunset. Best in early October when the larches turn yellow. Drive it if you're moving from west to east anyway.

On dinner times

Earlier than Rome, later than Munich.

7:30 p.m. is when most kitchens open; 8:30 is the right time to sit down; 9 is fine; 9:30 is pushing it in the Tyrolean half (kitchens close early there). The Ladin and Cortina side is more flexible. Lunch reservations are essential at the named rifugios and any restaurant with a Michelin star, even if you're just walking up. Most hotel half-board dinners are seated at a fixed time — choose the later slot.

On the weather

Afternoon storms · plan around them.

June through August, the pattern is: clear morning, building cumulus by noon, thunderstorms between 2 and 5 p.m., clear again by evening. Be off the high ridges (Seceda, Tre Cime, anything with cables) before 1 p.m. in summer. Mountain forecasts beat city ones — use Meteo Trentino or the Dolomites Tourist Board app. Bring a shell jacket every day, even in August.

On bookings

2026 changes everything.

The Winter Olympics (Feb 6–22, 2026) compress every Cortina booking — hotels were sold out 18 months in advance, restaurants 6 months. Even summer 2026 is unusually full because of pre-Olympic positioning. Book hotels nine months out for summer; the top restaurants (SanBrite, Atelier Moessmer, La Stüa de Michil, Malga Panna) three months out minimum. Aman Rosa Alpina has been sold out most of its first year. Plan accordingly.

On Lago di Braies

It's the lake. Pre-book the lot.

From mid-July through mid-September, you can't drive to the lake without a pre-booked parking slot through the official Pragser-Wildsee website. No exceptions, no on-the-day spots, no influencer-loophole. If you missed the booking window, the park-and-ride shuttle from Dobbiaco station is the only way in. Or arrive before 7 a.m. when the gate is still open and the lake is yours. The morning light is better anyway.

On cash

Card mostly. Cash at the huts.

Hotels, restaurants, and shops take cards everywhere — Amex less reliable than Visa or Mastercard. Rifugios (the mountain huts) are inconsistent — some take cards, some only cash, some print receipts on the back of a beer mat. Carry €60–100 in cash per hiking day to be safe. ATMs are in Cortina, Ortisei, San Cassiano and Corvara; you won't find one at a trailhead.

On the road etiquette

Stay calm. Locals always pass.

The mountain roads switchback hard and the locals know every one of them. They will pass you on blind corners; don't take it personally. Pull-outs (called piazzole di sosta) are scattered along the routes — use them if a queue forms behind you. The Great Dolomites Road and the passes (Pordoi, Falzarego, Sella) are slow even in fast cars. Allow double the time Google Maps says, in summer triple.

More Italy Other regions, in any order.
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Tell us you're going. When, for how long, what you care about, how you travel. We'll send a custom Dolomites itinerary in 72 hours — hotels, restaurants, hikes or ski days, the daily flow, the bookings to make first. Built around you specifically. Unlimited revisions until it's right.

$85, one time.

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Delivered within 72 hours · Unlimited revisions included